My friend Doris Jensen will understand when I say that when you're close to it, you become attuned to the sounds and rhythm of the ocean so that your mind almost slows down or gears up to match it. She and I spent two weeks together on the island of Zanzibar, my childhood home.
We had a little bungalow right on the beach, under tall palm trees, our veranda facing the sea. In the early morning we walked the beach, picking up shells, examining old 'beached' fishing boats, escaping the village dog packs! Later we watched as children walked to school carrying their books or, in some cases, cycling along the beach. We watched as their mothers, aunts and grandmothers worked in the sea, where sticks emerged marking their individual plots, to gather seaweed. These were government sponsored women's collectives who sold their seaweed to companies world wide for the manufacture of toothpaste among other things. We sat on our veranda and watched the tide coming in and the fisherman in a nearby village taking their boats out...and so on throughout the day. Our activities were more governed by the tides than the clock!
We seem to be lulled into a kind of mechanical habit on the ship. Depending on classes and meals we wander the corridors, carrying our books, smiling vague smiles and muttering greetings as we go. I have reverted to the tropical custom of many years and lie on my bed reading in the afternoons until 2.20 pm or 3.45 pm, my own class times. After class there is the 5 pm social hour in the faculty lounge where our brilliant barman, Mandy, effortlessly hands out drinks and 'slips' for signature. He barely pauses to ask for orders...he knows and remembers!
There are seminars in the evenings if one chooses or, as George and I tend to do, you can 'escape' to your cabin to watch a movie, read a book or go to your computer. We relish our down time alone on many evenings.
To explain that last statement: one of the greatest disadvantages of this voyage (and there aren't many!) is the fact that one is rarely alone. George is accessible, as are all the other Profs nearly 12 hours a day. This is wonderful in many ways. It has given us both an opportunity, rare on land based campuses, to really get to know students and for myself attending classes with them has added to that. We also share our lives every day with other 'participants' be they faculty members or life long learners. THere is great satisfaction and pleasure to be gained from this but again 'alone' time becomes increasingly important to one's state of mind. We have both realised that we need that....especially as the voyage draws to an end.
We are fortunate enough to have a large cabin and balcony so one huge pleasure which we share is simply observing the changing moods of the sea and sky. For me this is the sheer magic of travelling by sea which I have done since my early childhood.
Today there is an air of incredulity about the ship. We are docked in Honolulu, Hawaii to bunker or re-fuel. We are not allowed to leave the ship, the first day we have anchored in an American port for three months. I rarely complain about decisions made by Semester at Sea (I benefit so much from its existence)but this is a foolish one in my opinion. To deny 450 students the possibility of stepping on to American soil after three months away from home seems both cruel and somehow punitive. Tomorrow is American Thanksgiving and we shall spend 12 hours in Hilo, Hawaii. Hardly sufficient time for them to get to know the place, let alone the fact that they are miles from home on such a significant day. Passengers on this ship are nearly all American citizens, many of them away from home and family for the first time in their lives....this is at the very least a questionable decision.
Another wonderful aspect of life on board is our extended family. We have four 'daughters', Emma, Rachel, Ngerry and Lilly. They are a delightful quartette and tonight we have been celebrating Thanksgiving. We had a turkey dinner in the Garden lounge, with pumpkin pie followed by an ice cream cake...even Emma who tells us she can eat anything was daunted! (The ice cream cake was my separate idea and in the event quite unecessary!) Our present family is the greatest fun and we hve enjoyed them so much. It is lovely to hear them calling our "Hi Mum!' "Hi Dad!" as we go about the ship.
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Friday, November 18, 2011
Yokohama - Japan
There are a few cities which seem to welcome you into their midst immediately and Yokohama is one of them. From the sloping grass and cedar walkways which border the dock where we berth into the streets of the city. The buildings are tall but not massively so, unlike Hong Kong and Shanghai the city seems restrained and older, more traditional.
At another permanent berth across the harbour we could see the 1930s ship we had visited last year, the NYK Hikawamaru which has become part of the Yokohama Maritime Museum. We had so enjoyed its Art Decco decoration and the glimpse into a passenger liner of another era that we determined to visit it again.
It is always a surprise in Yokohama to look our of your cabin door and see walkers, runners and families strolling in the park outside and climbing a hill which affords them a view right into your cabin if you haappen to be on the Port side of the ship...as we are. We each forgot at different times and had to beat a hasty retreat, half dressed and draw the curtains hurriedly! But it such a pleasure to see people of all ages enjoying their surroundings so much. There is activity right up until sunset.
On the first day, which was sunny and surprisingly warm, George and I took a favourite stroll to a nearby traffic-free waterfront park. It was filled with families, back-packed mothers and children running free. There are two large red wooden warehouses, the second of which successfully hides a shopping market inside...you would never guess if you didn't know! We wandered there after a delicious lunch in an artisan's cafe which was barn like and white walled and had huge windows facing the seaside park so wonderfully light.
There is such a feeling of order in Japan, especially after the crowded chaos of India, Vietnam and China. Order and discipline perhaps and it is, as I said before about Kobe, quieter. People acutally take notice at crossings of the little green and red men flashing on and off...they actually wait! Also one feels incredibly safe in Japan, so alot of pressure is off.
We returned to the ship relaxed and happy that evening and decided to stay on board. The next morning george rushed off to make sure we could again visit our ship ignoring everyone who told him 'But it's closed...it says so everywhere', 'Only on Monday' he replied 'Today is Tuesday!' To me he said 'Give me just 10 minutes and I'll be back'.
So one and a half hours later George reappeared with the good news that NYK Hikawamaru was open but that he had just decided to go for a short (?!) walk around the place before returning to the ship. Interestingly when he had said 10 minutes I had recalculated into 'George time' and thought at the very least an hour, probably more and I was spot on.
We went over our beloved little ship again, through the carpeted corridors and elegant lounges, peering into the first class cabins with stained glass windows, climbing the curved central staircase and gazing at the square art decco designs on the ceilings and mirrors. We read the 5 and 6 course menus in the dark panelled dining room, tables beautifully set with crystal, silver, fine china and tiny vases with delicate flowers.
Then we descended slowly to the 4 bunk 3rd class cabins, where the passengers helped peel potatoes in the kitchens and formed a community with the crew. We walked enviously the wide wrap-around decks lamenting the fact that we don't have them on the Explorer so cannot go for long walks without using staircases!
We explored the huge engine room which rises through three decks in the middle of the ship and made our way right up to the Captains deck, the wheel house, his cabin. We were both in our element, you would think we had had enough of ships and the sea wouldn't you? Apparently not.
We had our last meal in Chinatown (2nd largest next to the one in San Francisco)and once again wandered through Chinese streets and shops in this Japanese city!
After an arduous Customs session where the whole ship had to line up in the terminal to have our passports checked and they refused to start until every single person had left the ship...we finally sailed at about 11.30 pm. The Explorer waited until then (sailing time is always 8 pm) for a student who had lost her passport in Shanghai and been refused permission to board the ship. She had had to get a new passport and fly to Yokohama to rejoin!
There was almost a feeling of relief to know tht we shall not be in port for 9 days when we arrive in Hilo, Hawaii. The students have alot of time and work to get through before their exams and they have been bombarded with Asian ports for the last two weeks. They are finding it difficult to get their noses to the grindstone again.
The Pacific today (18th Nov) has been pretty windy and rough and this alone is tiring. We are all sleeping well with the rocking motion except those for whom this is a nightmare of sea sickness.
Let's hope for calmer seas tomorrow....and so to bed...
At another permanent berth across the harbour we could see the 1930s ship we had visited last year, the NYK Hikawamaru which has become part of the Yokohama Maritime Museum. We had so enjoyed its Art Decco decoration and the glimpse into a passenger liner of another era that we determined to visit it again.
It is always a surprise in Yokohama to look our of your cabin door and see walkers, runners and families strolling in the park outside and climbing a hill which affords them a view right into your cabin if you haappen to be on the Port side of the ship...as we are. We each forgot at different times and had to beat a hasty retreat, half dressed and draw the curtains hurriedly! But it such a pleasure to see people of all ages enjoying their surroundings so much. There is activity right up until sunset.
On the first day, which was sunny and surprisingly warm, George and I took a favourite stroll to a nearby traffic-free waterfront park. It was filled with families, back-packed mothers and children running free. There are two large red wooden warehouses, the second of which successfully hides a shopping market inside...you would never guess if you didn't know! We wandered there after a delicious lunch in an artisan's cafe which was barn like and white walled and had huge windows facing the seaside park so wonderfully light.
There is such a feeling of order in Japan, especially after the crowded chaos of India, Vietnam and China. Order and discipline perhaps and it is, as I said before about Kobe, quieter. People acutally take notice at crossings of the little green and red men flashing on and off...they actually wait! Also one feels incredibly safe in Japan, so alot of pressure is off.
We returned to the ship relaxed and happy that evening and decided to stay on board. The next morning george rushed off to make sure we could again visit our ship ignoring everyone who told him 'But it's closed...it says so everywhere', 'Only on Monday' he replied 'Today is Tuesday!' To me he said 'Give me just 10 minutes and I'll be back'.
So one and a half hours later George reappeared with the good news that NYK Hikawamaru was open but that he had just decided to go for a short (?!) walk around the place before returning to the ship. Interestingly when he had said 10 minutes I had recalculated into 'George time' and thought at the very least an hour, probably more and I was spot on.
We went over our beloved little ship again, through the carpeted corridors and elegant lounges, peering into the first class cabins with stained glass windows, climbing the curved central staircase and gazing at the square art decco designs on the ceilings and mirrors. We read the 5 and 6 course menus in the dark panelled dining room, tables beautifully set with crystal, silver, fine china and tiny vases with delicate flowers.
Then we descended slowly to the 4 bunk 3rd class cabins, where the passengers helped peel potatoes in the kitchens and formed a community with the crew. We walked enviously the wide wrap-around decks lamenting the fact that we don't have them on the Explorer so cannot go for long walks without using staircases!
We explored the huge engine room which rises through three decks in the middle of the ship and made our way right up to the Captains deck, the wheel house, his cabin. We were both in our element, you would think we had had enough of ships and the sea wouldn't you? Apparently not.
We had our last meal in Chinatown (2nd largest next to the one in San Francisco)and once again wandered through Chinese streets and shops in this Japanese city!
After an arduous Customs session where the whole ship had to line up in the terminal to have our passports checked and they refused to start until every single person had left the ship...we finally sailed at about 11.30 pm. The Explorer waited until then (sailing time is always 8 pm) for a student who had lost her passport in Shanghai and been refused permission to board the ship. She had had to get a new passport and fly to Yokohama to rejoin!
There was almost a feeling of relief to know tht we shall not be in port for 9 days when we arrive in Hilo, Hawaii. The students have alot of time and work to get through before their exams and they have been bombarded with Asian ports for the last two weeks. They are finding it difficult to get their noses to the grindstone again.
The Pacific today (18th Nov) has been pretty windy and rough and this alone is tiring. We are all sleeping well with the rocking motion except those for whom this is a nightmare of sea sickness.
Let's hope for calmer seas tomorrow....and so to bed...
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Kobe, Japan
I felt sick and tired - literally! I had absolutely no energy to do much as we sailed into Kobe. Because we have been there twice before George was happy to keep me company on our first day and we stayed on board. I had put myself on to anti biotics because I recognised the symptome of a chest infection which accelerates my asthma and gives me a gag inducing cough. I have had this before only on board the ship. On the first voyage three times and on the last only once...hopefully the same on this one.
The second day George was going on a hiking trip and I feeling much, much better, joined Brenda, Terry and Alfred on an exploration to find a particular Art Gallery. We left the ship and close by boarded the Port Liner, a fast train into town. We then collaborated on getting subway tickets from computer like machines and boarded the subway to the nearest station to the gallery. Once we were settled we noticed that it really picked up speed and sped through a couple of stations...oops, this was, we realised, the Speedy Express to Osaka! When it finally came to a halt we rushed off and caught the next slow train back to the correct subway station feeling like complete nits.
We weaked a short distance to the gallery, an impressive building built of massive concrete blocks. The architecture reminded me somewhat of Trent University in Peterborough. Looking up at its grey walls I suddenly thought 'What if there was an earthquake right this minute? This wall would fall on us and...well we'd be pancakes!' These thoughts of earthquakes and tsunamis were common to many of us I discovered. How could it not be so? We had a discussion as to whether the ship would make for open sea when the tsunami warning sounded and, if so, what happened to us?! Even on the ship as I stood on our balcony looking out to the beautiful skylines of Kobe and Yokohama I could see in my minds eye the buldings crumbling as I looked. There are grave disadvantages to having a vivid imagination.
We decided to have quick lunch prior to walking round the gallery so we found a cafeteria and sat outside in the sunshine eating sandwiches. Then with some difficulty we found, after riding up and down a couple of times in an elevator which would only go to Floor 3. some installation art spread through three rooms. The first was an artistic line up of rifles, looking threatening and ominous, the second had taken the rifles apart and concentrated on certain parts of them strewn round the room and the third depicted the melting of metal and other substances after the dropping of the A bomb...we presumed. The whole thing had power, the power to disturb greatly...and the power to depress.
We looked for something more cheerful and uplifting only to discover that out of three galleries, two were closed and we had seen the only one open to the public. As we had paid about $20.00 worth of Yen to enter we were a little, to say the least, disappointed!
Apart from an excellent coffee at Starbucks our day had been great fun certainly but unproductive and uninspiring! However strolling around Kobe is always a lovely reminder of how cities should be. People smile and are helpful, children are delightfully attractive and appealing: there are lovely walks and none of the noisy stress of other cities in India, China or North America. The Japanese seem to be a relatively quiet people, their culture demanding discipline and restraint. i haven't checked the suicide rate....might be interesting.
The second day George was going on a hiking trip and I feeling much, much better, joined Brenda, Terry and Alfred on an exploration to find a particular Art Gallery. We left the ship and close by boarded the Port Liner, a fast train into town. We then collaborated on getting subway tickets from computer like machines and boarded the subway to the nearest station to the gallery. Once we were settled we noticed that it really picked up speed and sped through a couple of stations...oops, this was, we realised, the Speedy Express to Osaka! When it finally came to a halt we rushed off and caught the next slow train back to the correct subway station feeling like complete nits.
We weaked a short distance to the gallery, an impressive building built of massive concrete blocks. The architecture reminded me somewhat of Trent University in Peterborough. Looking up at its grey walls I suddenly thought 'What if there was an earthquake right this minute? This wall would fall on us and...well we'd be pancakes!' These thoughts of earthquakes and tsunamis were common to many of us I discovered. How could it not be so? We had a discussion as to whether the ship would make for open sea when the tsunami warning sounded and, if so, what happened to us?! Even on the ship as I stood on our balcony looking out to the beautiful skylines of Kobe and Yokohama I could see in my minds eye the buldings crumbling as I looked. There are grave disadvantages to having a vivid imagination.
We decided to have quick lunch prior to walking round the gallery so we found a cafeteria and sat outside in the sunshine eating sandwiches. Then with some difficulty we found, after riding up and down a couple of times in an elevator which would only go to Floor 3. some installation art spread through three rooms. The first was an artistic line up of rifles, looking threatening and ominous, the second had taken the rifles apart and concentrated on certain parts of them strewn round the room and the third depicted the melting of metal and other substances after the dropping of the A bomb...we presumed. The whole thing had power, the power to disturb greatly...and the power to depress.
We looked for something more cheerful and uplifting only to discover that out of three galleries, two were closed and we had seen the only one open to the public. As we had paid about $20.00 worth of Yen to enter we were a little, to say the least, disappointed!
Apart from an excellent coffee at Starbucks our day had been great fun certainly but unproductive and uninspiring! However strolling around Kobe is always a lovely reminder of how cities should be. People smile and are helpful, children are delightfully attractive and appealing: there are lovely walks and none of the noisy stress of other cities in India, China or North America. The Japanese seem to be a relatively quiet people, their culture demanding discipline and restraint. i haven't checked the suicide rate....might be interesting.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Xi'an continued
Our memorable visit to the Terracotta Warriers was followed by a very welcome lunch in a Chinese restaurant. Cindy on every occasion helped us choose our meal and then absented herself to eat quietly in a corner in another part of the room. We enjoyed her company so much as we drove and walked but realised that she needed down time when we were at meals. Cindy was bright and attractive, very dainty and classily but simply dressed. She had a rare sense of humour and found us extremely amusing. She easily 'got' our jokes and chatter and joined in happily. She was a delightful companion. On one occasion I believe we disappointed her.
Alfred wanted dumplings...very much. He mentioned them often and Cindy decided that what we needed was a meal consisting mainly of dumplings. So for our second evening she booked us into a Theatre restaurant and ordered our meal early in the day. Because of our magnificent lunch and the fact that we had been walking around nearly all day we would have been happy to forgo a dumpling supper and have a light meal with tcho (our newly discovered word for wine!) followed by an early night. No, she informed us charmingly, the meal has been ordered and has to be eaten. The booking cannot be cancelled. So like good children we went.
The restaurant was lavishly decorated in red and gold, huge and expensive. Course after course was set upon the table...all dumplings! There were various shapes, sizes and fillings but it was all dumplings! I was still so full of our midday meal I could only manage one or two of them on the top layer of the multi-layered bamboo steamer in which they were served..and there were at least three more courses. I believe I ate the least but we all struggled and when Cindy joines us at the end of the meal I think we had truly disappointed her.
We checked out of the hotel just after nine the following morning...having all slept pretty well. It was raining again and very grey. We visited two museums and had another excellent lunch before visiting the Moslem Quarter and Mosque. The latter was a beautiful oasis in the centre of the busy, noisy city, built in the Chinese pagoda style with peaceful gardens. Surrounding it was an exciting market full of exotic foods and other interesting things which I would have loved to examine more closely. It was narrow, crowded and colourful but we were rushed through in case we should succumb and buy something which, Cindy assured us, "Will fall apart tomorrow!" George of course was delighted...
We had seen earlier in the day piles and piles of rosy pomegranets and. with memories of loving it as a child in India, I asked Cindy if pure fresh pomegranate juice could be found in Xi'an. 'Only in the Moslem Quarter' she had replied. As we were approaching our van she suddenly stopped and pointed out a couple who were pressing the ruby coloured juice out of the fruit seeds and serving it in paper cups. I was the only one to buy a cup full and it was worth it. It has a tangy, refreshing flavour, really different from any other fruit juice when taken alone with no other juice added. Delicious!
Our next stop was our last in Xi'an...the Railway Station. The van was unable to park close to the entrance so dropped the four of us and Cindy down the road. We had to fight through crowds to reach the entrance and then there was a further bottle-neck as security men checked our passports and tickets. This took quite some time but eventually we were through to the 'Soft lounge' where we sat on hard wooden seats until Cindy had organised our tickets and discovered which platform we would be leaving from. We waited until we were allowed through the door to the platforms, Cindy hurrying ahead of us, and went down a flight of stairs to platform 5, carriage 11 and bunk numbers 32,34,35,and 36. We had a clean, 4 sleeper compartment to ourselves. Each bunk was made up for the night with a dark brown blanket under a white sheet and a pillow, and each bunk was bordered with a cream brocade frill, matching one along the top of the window. It was all very civilised and comfortable. The upper bunks each had one step to help the brave occupier climb up...George and Alfred decided they had the courage!
Cindy bade us a fond goodbye after making sure we were settled and when I gave her a farewell hug became quite emotional and tearful and hurried away. She had told us alot about herself and her life over the previous 48 hours and we liked and respected her. After she had left we looked at each other and said "OK supper!"
George and Alfred had gone shopping in a supermarket the previous night and bought baguettes, cheese, sausage and wine. The four of us enjoyed another hilarious picnic meal as the train started off. It was great to be with another couple with whom we got on so well, it made living in such close quarters easy and comfortable and we found a great deal to laugh at!
The only disadvantage to overnight trains in China is the 'squatter' toilet which easily seems to become overused and smelly. Getting up during the night was relatively easy for Terry and myself but required mountaineering skills by the two men. However they both managed it!
Just a few moments after the men had decided it was bed time and climbed into their upper bunks Terry leaned across and whispered to me 'Look at the time!' I had put my tiny travel clock on our table, it read 8.55 pm! We decided not to pass on this information (in case they descended again) and enjoyed our books for the next hour or so, our minute, round bed lights lit the pages just sufficiently.
I did not sleep well: I found I was so enjoying the movement of the train and the experience of travelling through the middle of China to Shanghai that I was too excited to sleep.
We arrived in Shanghai at about 8 am, took a taxi to the Bund where we found a coffee bar and enjoyed a huge, delicious cup of coffee with a muffin. We could see that the Explorer had docked and a short cab ride later we were on board again and in our cabins to shower and catch up on sleep.
This had been one of the most exciting and enjoyable few days of the voyage for all of us. We will not easily forget it.
Alfred wanted dumplings...very much. He mentioned them often and Cindy decided that what we needed was a meal consisting mainly of dumplings. So for our second evening she booked us into a Theatre restaurant and ordered our meal early in the day. Because of our magnificent lunch and the fact that we had been walking around nearly all day we would have been happy to forgo a dumpling supper and have a light meal with tcho (our newly discovered word for wine!) followed by an early night. No, she informed us charmingly, the meal has been ordered and has to be eaten. The booking cannot be cancelled. So like good children we went.
The restaurant was lavishly decorated in red and gold, huge and expensive. Course after course was set upon the table...all dumplings! There were various shapes, sizes and fillings but it was all dumplings! I was still so full of our midday meal I could only manage one or two of them on the top layer of the multi-layered bamboo steamer in which they were served..and there were at least three more courses. I believe I ate the least but we all struggled and when Cindy joines us at the end of the meal I think we had truly disappointed her.
We checked out of the hotel just after nine the following morning...having all slept pretty well. It was raining again and very grey. We visited two museums and had another excellent lunch before visiting the Moslem Quarter and Mosque. The latter was a beautiful oasis in the centre of the busy, noisy city, built in the Chinese pagoda style with peaceful gardens. Surrounding it was an exciting market full of exotic foods and other interesting things which I would have loved to examine more closely. It was narrow, crowded and colourful but we were rushed through in case we should succumb and buy something which, Cindy assured us, "Will fall apart tomorrow!" George of course was delighted...
We had seen earlier in the day piles and piles of rosy pomegranets and. with memories of loving it as a child in India, I asked Cindy if pure fresh pomegranate juice could be found in Xi'an. 'Only in the Moslem Quarter' she had replied. As we were approaching our van she suddenly stopped and pointed out a couple who were pressing the ruby coloured juice out of the fruit seeds and serving it in paper cups. I was the only one to buy a cup full and it was worth it. It has a tangy, refreshing flavour, really different from any other fruit juice when taken alone with no other juice added. Delicious!
Our next stop was our last in Xi'an...the Railway Station. The van was unable to park close to the entrance so dropped the four of us and Cindy down the road. We had to fight through crowds to reach the entrance and then there was a further bottle-neck as security men checked our passports and tickets. This took quite some time but eventually we were through to the 'Soft lounge' where we sat on hard wooden seats until Cindy had organised our tickets and discovered which platform we would be leaving from. We waited until we were allowed through the door to the platforms, Cindy hurrying ahead of us, and went down a flight of stairs to platform 5, carriage 11 and bunk numbers 32,34,35,and 36. We had a clean, 4 sleeper compartment to ourselves. Each bunk was made up for the night with a dark brown blanket under a white sheet and a pillow, and each bunk was bordered with a cream brocade frill, matching one along the top of the window. It was all very civilised and comfortable. The upper bunks each had one step to help the brave occupier climb up...George and Alfred decided they had the courage!
Cindy bade us a fond goodbye after making sure we were settled and when I gave her a farewell hug became quite emotional and tearful and hurried away. She had told us alot about herself and her life over the previous 48 hours and we liked and respected her. After she had left we looked at each other and said "OK supper!"
George and Alfred had gone shopping in a supermarket the previous night and bought baguettes, cheese, sausage and wine. The four of us enjoyed another hilarious picnic meal as the train started off. It was great to be with another couple with whom we got on so well, it made living in such close quarters easy and comfortable and we found a great deal to laugh at!
The only disadvantage to overnight trains in China is the 'squatter' toilet which easily seems to become overused and smelly. Getting up during the night was relatively easy for Terry and myself but required mountaineering skills by the two men. However they both managed it!
Just a few moments after the men had decided it was bed time and climbed into their upper bunks Terry leaned across and whispered to me 'Look at the time!' I had put my tiny travel clock on our table, it read 8.55 pm! We decided not to pass on this information (in case they descended again) and enjoyed our books for the next hour or so, our minute, round bed lights lit the pages just sufficiently.
I did not sleep well: I found I was so enjoying the movement of the train and the experience of travelling through the middle of China to Shanghai that I was too excited to sleep.
We arrived in Shanghai at about 8 am, took a taxi to the Bund where we found a coffee bar and enjoyed a huge, delicious cup of coffee with a muffin. We could see that the Explorer had docked and a short cab ride later we were on board again and in our cabins to shower and catch up on sleep.
This had been one of the most exciting and enjoyable few days of the voyage for all of us. We will not easily forget it.
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Xi'an and Terracotta Warriers
In trying to make the waiters and waitresses understand our desire to buy a bottle of wine in our hotel Alfred said in his best (very Southern USA) English accent "Waaahn...waaahn?". Ah they understood...'lai sha ma' they said their faces lighting up and many nodding heads. No movement though...'Lay sha maah' repeated Alfred in his best Chinese....again nodding heads and delighted smiles but slightly puzzled expressions as he continued to ask..'Lay sha maah?' Eventually he caught sight of a beverage menu, found the wine and he and George decided on a particular bottle. $30.00 (!!) later we had a bottle of wine and retired to Terry and Alfred's room to enjoy it. All of us congratulating Alfred on his prowess in the Chinese language.
The next morning we met Cindy and Mr Lee to continue out tour to the Terracotta Warriers. We were explaining to Cindy our difficulty in purchasing the wine but that we had learned the word for 'wine', 'Lai sha ma' we told her was going to be a valuable addition to our vocabulary in China. She put her hand over her nouth, turned away and started to giggle. OK so our pronunciation wasn't the best but surely not that funny?
We looked at each other, perplexed, as she continued to rock back and forth laughing now out loud. "You were asking why? why? WHY? " she burst out..'Why?' we thought...'WHY?'.... no wonder they had looked puzzled as Alfred kept repeating the Chinese word joyously to them! What is the word then we asked...'Tcho' she replied 'TCHO' we all repeated..and you can imagine perhaps how often and how confidently we used that word thereafter!! (For any of you visiting China "Great Wall" Cabernet is the best red we tasted...and we did that...often!)
It was a miserable, grey day outside as we drove through the crowded streets of Xi'an and out beyond the city limits to Pit 1 of the huge excavation site where the Terracotta Warriers had been found.
One day in 1974 a farmer and his friends were drilling for water and discovered to their surprise, pottery fragments and bronze weapons in the soil beneath them. These they took to be examined by experts and further excavation over a few years revealed the massive 3 pits covering an area of 20,000 square meters which proved to be the burial pit of China's first feudal Emperor, Quin Shi Huan. 8,000 Terracotta armoured warriers and horses and more than 100 chariots were buried there! This has become the on site Museum which we visited. There has been on going excavation ever since the first discovery and the tomb is more than 2,200years old! It is now on UNESCO's list as a world class heritage site.
I have always wanted to see these warriers, from the day I first learned of their discovery. They have somehow fed my imagination and wonder but I never imagined I would have the opportunity to do so. Believe me when I say they do not disappoint. I stared down at their faces, a dusty ochre in colour, each one different, marching forward silently through eternity...it was an awe inspiring sight They stretch into the distance under the vast concrete 'tent' that is their shelter and we all stared in amazement at this masterpiece of human creation. The men who made them were buried alive as were more than a thousand concubines to serve their master in death. Here was almost mystical creation coupled with the dreadful destruction of human life. That it occurred two thousand years ago does not lessen the horror of the act or the enormity of the human skill on display.
We seemed each to be in our own minds as we walked slowly around, absorbing and seeing but not sharing our thoughts and reactions. This was the burial place of more than an Emperor, somewhere here were the remains of thousands of human beings, victims of one man's colossal ego. The early Killing Fields of China? But it is the wonder of human endeavour that ultimately triumphs and one feels insignificant in the face of it. I have rarely been so moved and humbled by art, because that is what this is...a monumental work of art.
The next morning we met Cindy and Mr Lee to continue out tour to the Terracotta Warriers. We were explaining to Cindy our difficulty in purchasing the wine but that we had learned the word for 'wine', 'Lai sha ma' we told her was going to be a valuable addition to our vocabulary in China. She put her hand over her nouth, turned away and started to giggle. OK so our pronunciation wasn't the best but surely not that funny?
We looked at each other, perplexed, as she continued to rock back and forth laughing now out loud. "You were asking why? why? WHY? " she burst out..'Why?' we thought...'WHY?'.... no wonder they had looked puzzled as Alfred kept repeating the Chinese word joyously to them! What is the word then we asked...'Tcho' she replied 'TCHO' we all repeated..and you can imagine perhaps how often and how confidently we used that word thereafter!! (For any of you visiting China "Great Wall" Cabernet is the best red we tasted...and we did that...often!)
It was a miserable, grey day outside as we drove through the crowded streets of Xi'an and out beyond the city limits to Pit 1 of the huge excavation site where the Terracotta Warriers had been found.
One day in 1974 a farmer and his friends were drilling for water and discovered to their surprise, pottery fragments and bronze weapons in the soil beneath them. These they took to be examined by experts and further excavation over a few years revealed the massive 3 pits covering an area of 20,000 square meters which proved to be the burial pit of China's first feudal Emperor, Quin Shi Huan. 8,000 Terracotta armoured warriers and horses and more than 100 chariots were buried there! This has become the on site Museum which we visited. There has been on going excavation ever since the first discovery and the tomb is more than 2,200years old! It is now on UNESCO's list as a world class heritage site.
I have always wanted to see these warriers, from the day I first learned of their discovery. They have somehow fed my imagination and wonder but I never imagined I would have the opportunity to do so. Believe me when I say they do not disappoint. I stared down at their faces, a dusty ochre in colour, each one different, marching forward silently through eternity...it was an awe inspiring sight They stretch into the distance under the vast concrete 'tent' that is their shelter and we all stared in amazement at this masterpiece of human creation. The men who made them were buried alive as were more than a thousand concubines to serve their master in death. Here was almost mystical creation coupled with the dreadful destruction of human life. That it occurred two thousand years ago does not lessen the horror of the act or the enormity of the human skill on display.
We seemed each to be in our own minds as we walked slowly around, absorbing and seeing but not sharing our thoughts and reactions. This was the burial place of more than an Emperor, somewhere here were the remains of thousands of human beings, victims of one man's colossal ego. The early Killing Fields of China? But it is the wonder of human endeavour that ultimately triumphs and one feels insignificant in the face of it. I have rarely been so moved and humbled by art, because that is what this is...a monumental work of art.
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Xi'an
We arrived at the airport in good time for our flight and were able to wander around a little. It is another beautiful, modern almost barn like building. It is shaped, but I hadn't seen it then, like the huge structure which covers Pit 1 of the excavation of the Terracotta warriers! Check in was a breeze and I was persuaded to check in my back pack as I had a tube of toothpaste which was too large for the allowed amount of cream or paste. I never mind doing this as it frees me up to walk around stress free and in comfort.
There were others sharing the plane, (Eastern Airline), with us from Semester at Sea, (as we had shared their bus), who were staying another night in Xi'an and flying down to Shanghai. We on the other hand would be spending that night in a "soft sleeper' on the train.
The flight over Hong Kong was spectacular before we flew straight out to sea and then North West over land to the middle of China and Xi'an. The flight lasted two and a half hours, the last half hour through thick mist and fog. We could not see land or trees until we actually landed!
Again going through Customs was simple and smooth and I went ahead to meet our guide. Cindy was standing at the barrier carrying a sign reading Margaret Nan Thomas, so their was no mistaking her! Her first words when she saw me were "But where is your luggage?" This is it I said. She looked at us all suspiciously and said severely "You must have some luggage..no?" NO, we replied this is it! I thought oh dear she is going to be very rigid and strict. She was petite and quick., with medium length straight black hair and a very serious expression. She walked fast to the waiting 6 seater van and introduced us to our driver, Mr Lee.
'He is the second fastest driver in Xi'an' she told us when we were driving off, 'Who is the fastest?' someone asked 'Oh he's dead, killed in motor accident' she replied and we realised that she was grinning mischievously...ah thank the lord she had a sense of humour!
It was about an hour's drive to our hotel, the Skytel, in the middle of the city. The entrance hall was Chinese grand. That is there were dark marble walls, a glistening chandelier above the reception desk and very little English was spoken. Cindy arranged our morning meeting time for 9 am and suggested we eat our first meal in the hotel dining room that evening.
Our rooms were clean, large and modern. There was a kettle, tea bags and two white mugs. The floor and walls of the bathroom were of marble and the carpet an uninspiring mustard colour. The beds were hard but I thought 'Good for my back!'. Terry and Alfred were next door.
Our dinner that evening was a very Chinese one and delicious. We had great fun attempting to make ourselves understood to the waiters and waitresses all formally dressed in black and white. Alfred is a natural comedian and we had hilarious conversations whilst using our chop sticks and trying to identify what we were eating. The back ground music to all this was Jewish. Next to us, behind a partial wooden partition was a group of Jewish men and women celebrating their Sabbath...they joined us again the next morning at breakfast when their enthusiastic chanting drowned out the possibility of much conversation!
There were others sharing the plane, (Eastern Airline), with us from Semester at Sea, (as we had shared their bus), who were staying another night in Xi'an and flying down to Shanghai. We on the other hand would be spending that night in a "soft sleeper' on the train.
The flight over Hong Kong was spectacular before we flew straight out to sea and then North West over land to the middle of China and Xi'an. The flight lasted two and a half hours, the last half hour through thick mist and fog. We could not see land or trees until we actually landed!
Again going through Customs was simple and smooth and I went ahead to meet our guide. Cindy was standing at the barrier carrying a sign reading Margaret Nan Thomas, so their was no mistaking her! Her first words when she saw me were "But where is your luggage?" This is it I said. She looked at us all suspiciously and said severely "You must have some luggage..no?" NO, we replied this is it! I thought oh dear she is going to be very rigid and strict. She was petite and quick., with medium length straight black hair and a very serious expression. She walked fast to the waiting 6 seater van and introduced us to our driver, Mr Lee.
'He is the second fastest driver in Xi'an' she told us when we were driving off, 'Who is the fastest?' someone asked 'Oh he's dead, killed in motor accident' she replied and we realised that she was grinning mischievously...ah thank the lord she had a sense of humour!
It was about an hour's drive to our hotel, the Skytel, in the middle of the city. The entrance hall was Chinese grand. That is there were dark marble walls, a glistening chandelier above the reception desk and very little English was spoken. Cindy arranged our morning meeting time for 9 am and suggested we eat our first meal in the hotel dining room that evening.
Our rooms were clean, large and modern. There was a kettle, tea bags and two white mugs. The floor and walls of the bathroom were of marble and the carpet an uninspiring mustard colour. The beds were hard but I thought 'Good for my back!'. Terry and Alfred were next door.
Our dinner that evening was a very Chinese one and delicious. We had great fun attempting to make ourselves understood to the waiters and waitresses all formally dressed in black and white. Alfred is a natural comedian and we had hilarious conversations whilst using our chop sticks and trying to identify what we were eating. The back ground music to all this was Jewish. Next to us, behind a partial wooden partition was a group of Jewish men and women celebrating their Sabbath...they joined us again the next morning at breakfast when their enthusiastic chanting drowned out the possibility of much conversation!
Monday, November 7, 2011
Goodbye Hong Kong! 4th November
We have had a brief but enjoyable stay in Hong kong. Hard to believe we only arrived here yesterday morning.
At 11 am we, that is Terry, Alfred, Jane, Patrick and ourselved took the subway to the jade market. We had so much walking to do to reach the train I thought we should have been about level with the market but no....we got off it at the second stop and then walked back.
While Jane Terry and I walked slowly round the steaming market the three men sat in an Indian restaurant drinking beer...sensible guys! I did buy a few pieces: bracelet, pendant and another Budha to add to my collection. I now have 6 on board, apart from a Budha pendant I love and bought for about four dollars in Vietnam! At home there await my Dad's lovely, serene brass one which has travelled the world with our family for nearly eighty years and started the whole collection, my favourite jade one bought last year at the same jade market here and a tiny green jade one bought in a Chinese shop I used to frequent in Hamilton. I must have been Budhist in a past life and may very well become one again in this life!
We had a lovely Chinese lunch in a purely Chinese restaurant and then walked, God help me, back to the ship. Hence a really bad back this morning which makes me feel a hundred years old! I also seem to have a rheumatism in one of my toes so I truly feel decrepid! I have attempted to make my back pack as light as it can possibly be but it's amazing how hard that is....do I really need this stuff? Apparently I do!
Last night we all succumbed and had a Vietnamese meal in the mall right where we are berthed. Lovely and cool and the food superb. We have met such great people on the ship this year. Brenda and Steve Malloy also joined us for supper...Amy Unruh has gone off to Tibet! Looking forward very much to hearing about that trip when we all get back to the ship in Shanghai. The monks are not happy there and the group is being very restricted in their movements.
So we set off to the airport by taxi (unless we can hitch a bus ride from an SAS group who are leaving at the same time, same flight. Not striclty allowed but we'll ask the powers that be and see if it can be arranged.
Later...much later! Tuesday 7th nov.
We did indeed receive permission to travel to the airport on an SAS bus. Alfred and George said Oh no we shouldn't ask...not done. However I thought that foolish and went through the authorities myself and was givven immediate permission by both the purser's office and the staff. As there were only 8 peoplec travelling on the same flight as ourselves to Xi'an it would have been churlish of them to refuse four seats in a bus built to carry at least 30 passengers! I even offered to pay a fare and was turned down on that score so all was well and our ride to the airport smooth and worry free.
More on Xi'an and our train trip to Shanghai later.
At 11 am we, that is Terry, Alfred, Jane, Patrick and ourselved took the subway to the jade market. We had so much walking to do to reach the train I thought we should have been about level with the market but no....we got off it at the second stop and then walked back.
While Jane Terry and I walked slowly round the steaming market the three men sat in an Indian restaurant drinking beer...sensible guys! I did buy a few pieces: bracelet, pendant and another Budha to add to my collection. I now have 6 on board, apart from a Budha pendant I love and bought for about four dollars in Vietnam! At home there await my Dad's lovely, serene brass one which has travelled the world with our family for nearly eighty years and started the whole collection, my favourite jade one bought last year at the same jade market here and a tiny green jade one bought in a Chinese shop I used to frequent in Hamilton. I must have been Budhist in a past life and may very well become one again in this life!
We had a lovely Chinese lunch in a purely Chinese restaurant and then walked, God help me, back to the ship. Hence a really bad back this morning which makes me feel a hundred years old! I also seem to have a rheumatism in one of my toes so I truly feel decrepid! I have attempted to make my back pack as light as it can possibly be but it's amazing how hard that is....do I really need this stuff? Apparently I do!
Last night we all succumbed and had a Vietnamese meal in the mall right where we are berthed. Lovely and cool and the food superb. We have met such great people on the ship this year. Brenda and Steve Malloy also joined us for supper...Amy Unruh has gone off to Tibet! Looking forward very much to hearing about that trip when we all get back to the ship in Shanghai. The monks are not happy there and the group is being very restricted in their movements.
So we set off to the airport by taxi (unless we can hitch a bus ride from an SAS group who are leaving at the same time, same flight. Not striclty allowed but we'll ask the powers that be and see if it can be arranged.
Later...much later! Tuesday 7th nov.
We did indeed receive permission to travel to the airport on an SAS bus. Alfred and George said Oh no we shouldn't ask...not done. However I thought that foolish and went through the authorities myself and was givven immediate permission by both the purser's office and the staff. As there were only 8 peoplec travelling on the same flight as ourselves to Xi'an it would have been churlish of them to refuse four seats in a bus built to carry at least 30 passengers! I even offered to pay a fare and was turned down on that score so all was well and our ride to the airport smooth and worry free.
More on Xi'an and our train trip to Shanghai later.
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