There are a few cities which seem to welcome you into their midst immediately and Yokohama is one of them. From the sloping grass and cedar walkways which border the dock where we berth into the streets of the city. The buildings are tall but not massively so, unlike Hong Kong and Shanghai the city seems restrained and older, more traditional.
At another permanent berth across the harbour we could see the 1930s ship we had visited last year, the NYK Hikawamaru which has become part of the Yokohama Maritime Museum. We had so enjoyed its Art Decco decoration and the glimpse into a passenger liner of another era that we determined to visit it again.
It is always a surprise in Yokohama to look our of your cabin door and see walkers, runners and families strolling in the park outside and climbing a hill which affords them a view right into your cabin if you haappen to be on the Port side of the ship...as we are. We each forgot at different times and had to beat a hasty retreat, half dressed and draw the curtains hurriedly! But it such a pleasure to see people of all ages enjoying their surroundings so much. There is activity right up until sunset.
On the first day, which was sunny and surprisingly warm, George and I took a favourite stroll to a nearby traffic-free waterfront park. It was filled with families, back-packed mothers and children running free. There are two large red wooden warehouses, the second of which successfully hides a shopping market inside...you would never guess if you didn't know! We wandered there after a delicious lunch in an artisan's cafe which was barn like and white walled and had huge windows facing the seaside park so wonderfully light.
There is such a feeling of order in Japan, especially after the crowded chaos of India, Vietnam and China. Order and discipline perhaps and it is, as I said before about Kobe, quieter. People acutally take notice at crossings of the little green and red men flashing on and off...they actually wait! Also one feels incredibly safe in Japan, so alot of pressure is off.
We returned to the ship relaxed and happy that evening and decided to stay on board. The next morning george rushed off to make sure we could again visit our ship ignoring everyone who told him 'But it's closed...it says so everywhere', 'Only on Monday' he replied 'Today is Tuesday!' To me he said 'Give me just 10 minutes and I'll be back'.
So one and a half hours later George reappeared with the good news that NYK Hikawamaru was open but that he had just decided to go for a short (?!) walk around the place before returning to the ship. Interestingly when he had said 10 minutes I had recalculated into 'George time' and thought at the very least an hour, probably more and I was spot on.
We went over our beloved little ship again, through the carpeted corridors and elegant lounges, peering into the first class cabins with stained glass windows, climbing the curved central staircase and gazing at the square art decco designs on the ceilings and mirrors. We read the 5 and 6 course menus in the dark panelled dining room, tables beautifully set with crystal, silver, fine china and tiny vases with delicate flowers.
Then we descended slowly to the 4 bunk 3rd class cabins, where the passengers helped peel potatoes in the kitchens and formed a community with the crew. We walked enviously the wide wrap-around decks lamenting the fact that we don't have them on the Explorer so cannot go for long walks without using staircases!
We explored the huge engine room which rises through three decks in the middle of the ship and made our way right up to the Captains deck, the wheel house, his cabin. We were both in our element, you would think we had had enough of ships and the sea wouldn't you? Apparently not.
We had our last meal in Chinatown (2nd largest next to the one in San Francisco)and once again wandered through Chinese streets and shops in this Japanese city!
After an arduous Customs session where the whole ship had to line up in the terminal to have our passports checked and they refused to start until every single person had left the ship...we finally sailed at about 11.30 pm. The Explorer waited until then (sailing time is always 8 pm) for a student who had lost her passport in Shanghai and been refused permission to board the ship. She had had to get a new passport and fly to Yokohama to rejoin!
There was almost a feeling of relief to know tht we shall not be in port for 9 days when we arrive in Hilo, Hawaii. The students have alot of time and work to get through before their exams and they have been bombarded with Asian ports for the last two weeks. They are finding it difficult to get their noses to the grindstone again.
The Pacific today (18th Nov) has been pretty windy and rough and this alone is tiring. We are all sleeping well with the rocking motion except those for whom this is a nightmare of sea sickness.
Let's hope for calmer seas tomorrow....and so to bed...
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