Our memorable visit to the Terracotta Warriers was followed by a very welcome lunch in a Chinese restaurant. Cindy on every occasion helped us choose our meal and then absented herself to eat quietly in a corner in another part of the room. We enjoyed her company so much as we drove and walked but realised that she needed down time when we were at meals. Cindy was bright and attractive, very dainty and classily but simply dressed. She had a rare sense of humour and found us extremely amusing. She easily 'got' our jokes and chatter and joined in happily. She was a delightful companion. On one occasion I believe we disappointed her.
Alfred wanted dumplings...very much. He mentioned them often and Cindy decided that what we needed was a meal consisting mainly of dumplings. So for our second evening she booked us into a Theatre restaurant and ordered our meal early in the day. Because of our magnificent lunch and the fact that we had been walking around nearly all day we would have been happy to forgo a dumpling supper and have a light meal with tcho (our newly discovered word for wine!) followed by an early night. No, she informed us charmingly, the meal has been ordered and has to be eaten. The booking cannot be cancelled. So like good children we went.
The restaurant was lavishly decorated in red and gold, huge and expensive. Course after course was set upon the table...all dumplings! There were various shapes, sizes and fillings but it was all dumplings! I was still so full of our midday meal I could only manage one or two of them on the top layer of the multi-layered bamboo steamer in which they were served..and there were at least three more courses. I believe I ate the least but we all struggled and when Cindy joines us at the end of the meal I think we had truly disappointed her.
We checked out of the hotel just after nine the following morning...having all slept pretty well. It was raining again and very grey. We visited two museums and had another excellent lunch before visiting the Moslem Quarter and Mosque. The latter was a beautiful oasis in the centre of the busy, noisy city, built in the Chinese pagoda style with peaceful gardens. Surrounding it was an exciting market full of exotic foods and other interesting things which I would have loved to examine more closely. It was narrow, crowded and colourful but we were rushed through in case we should succumb and buy something which, Cindy assured us, "Will fall apart tomorrow!" George of course was delighted...
We had seen earlier in the day piles and piles of rosy pomegranets and. with memories of loving it as a child in India, I asked Cindy if pure fresh pomegranate juice could be found in Xi'an. 'Only in the Moslem Quarter' she had replied. As we were approaching our van she suddenly stopped and pointed out a couple who were pressing the ruby coloured juice out of the fruit seeds and serving it in paper cups. I was the only one to buy a cup full and it was worth it. It has a tangy, refreshing flavour, really different from any other fruit juice when taken alone with no other juice added. Delicious!
Our next stop was our last in Xi'an...the Railway Station. The van was unable to park close to the entrance so dropped the four of us and Cindy down the road. We had to fight through crowds to reach the entrance and then there was a further bottle-neck as security men checked our passports and tickets. This took quite some time but eventually we were through to the 'Soft lounge' where we sat on hard wooden seats until Cindy had organised our tickets and discovered which platform we would be leaving from. We waited until we were allowed through the door to the platforms, Cindy hurrying ahead of us, and went down a flight of stairs to platform 5, carriage 11 and bunk numbers 32,34,35,and 36. We had a clean, 4 sleeper compartment to ourselves. Each bunk was made up for the night with a dark brown blanket under a white sheet and a pillow, and each bunk was bordered with a cream brocade frill, matching one along the top of the window. It was all very civilised and comfortable. The upper bunks each had one step to help the brave occupier climb up...George and Alfred decided they had the courage!
Cindy bade us a fond goodbye after making sure we were settled and when I gave her a farewell hug became quite emotional and tearful and hurried away. She had told us alot about herself and her life over the previous 48 hours and we liked and respected her. After she had left we looked at each other and said "OK supper!"
George and Alfred had gone shopping in a supermarket the previous night and bought baguettes, cheese, sausage and wine. The four of us enjoyed another hilarious picnic meal as the train started off. It was great to be with another couple with whom we got on so well, it made living in such close quarters easy and comfortable and we found a great deal to laugh at!
The only disadvantage to overnight trains in China is the 'squatter' toilet which easily seems to become overused and smelly. Getting up during the night was relatively easy for Terry and myself but required mountaineering skills by the two men. However they both managed it!
Just a few moments after the men had decided it was bed time and climbed into their upper bunks Terry leaned across and whispered to me 'Look at the time!' I had put my tiny travel clock on our table, it read 8.55 pm! We decided not to pass on this information (in case they descended again) and enjoyed our books for the next hour or so, our minute, round bed lights lit the pages just sufficiently.
I did not sleep well: I found I was so enjoying the movement of the train and the experience of travelling through the middle of China to Shanghai that I was too excited to sleep.
We arrived in Shanghai at about 8 am, took a taxi to the Bund where we found a coffee bar and enjoyed a huge, delicious cup of coffee with a muffin. We could see that the Explorer had docked and a short cab ride later we were on board again and in our cabins to shower and catch up on sleep.
This had been one of the most exciting and enjoyable few days of the voyage for all of us. We will not easily forget it.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Xi'an and Terracotta Warriers
In trying to make the waiters and waitresses understand our desire to buy a bottle of wine in our hotel Alfred said in his best (very Southern USA) English accent "Waaahn...waaahn?". Ah they understood...'lai sha ma' they said their faces lighting up and many nodding heads. No movement though...'Lay sha maah' repeated Alfred in his best Chinese....again nodding heads and delighted smiles but slightly puzzled expressions as he continued to ask..'Lay sha maah?' Eventually he caught sight of a beverage menu, found the wine and he and George decided on a particular bottle. $30.00 (!!) later we had a bottle of wine and retired to Terry and Alfred's room to enjoy it. All of us congratulating Alfred on his prowess in the Chinese language.
The next morning we met Cindy and Mr Lee to continue out tour to the Terracotta Warriers. We were explaining to Cindy our difficulty in purchasing the wine but that we had learned the word for 'wine', 'Lai sha ma' we told her was going to be a valuable addition to our vocabulary in China. She put her hand over her nouth, turned away and started to giggle. OK so our pronunciation wasn't the best but surely not that funny?
We looked at each other, perplexed, as she continued to rock back and forth laughing now out loud. "You were asking why? why? WHY? " she burst out..'Why?' we thought...'WHY?'.... no wonder they had looked puzzled as Alfred kept repeating the Chinese word joyously to them! What is the word then we asked...'Tcho' she replied 'TCHO' we all repeated..and you can imagine perhaps how often and how confidently we used that word thereafter!! (For any of you visiting China "Great Wall" Cabernet is the best red we tasted...and we did that...often!)
It was a miserable, grey day outside as we drove through the crowded streets of Xi'an and out beyond the city limits to Pit 1 of the huge excavation site where the Terracotta Warriers had been found.
One day in 1974 a farmer and his friends were drilling for water and discovered to their surprise, pottery fragments and bronze weapons in the soil beneath them. These they took to be examined by experts and further excavation over a few years revealed the massive 3 pits covering an area of 20,000 square meters which proved to be the burial pit of China's first feudal Emperor, Quin Shi Huan. 8,000 Terracotta armoured warriers and horses and more than 100 chariots were buried there! This has become the on site Museum which we visited. There has been on going excavation ever since the first discovery and the tomb is more than 2,200years old! It is now on UNESCO's list as a world class heritage site.
I have always wanted to see these warriers, from the day I first learned of their discovery. They have somehow fed my imagination and wonder but I never imagined I would have the opportunity to do so. Believe me when I say they do not disappoint. I stared down at their faces, a dusty ochre in colour, each one different, marching forward silently through eternity...it was an awe inspiring sight They stretch into the distance under the vast concrete 'tent' that is their shelter and we all stared in amazement at this masterpiece of human creation. The men who made them were buried alive as were more than a thousand concubines to serve their master in death. Here was almost mystical creation coupled with the dreadful destruction of human life. That it occurred two thousand years ago does not lessen the horror of the act or the enormity of the human skill on display.
We seemed each to be in our own minds as we walked slowly around, absorbing and seeing but not sharing our thoughts and reactions. This was the burial place of more than an Emperor, somewhere here were the remains of thousands of human beings, victims of one man's colossal ego. The early Killing Fields of China? But it is the wonder of human endeavour that ultimately triumphs and one feels insignificant in the face of it. I have rarely been so moved and humbled by art, because that is what this is...a monumental work of art.
The next morning we met Cindy and Mr Lee to continue out tour to the Terracotta Warriers. We were explaining to Cindy our difficulty in purchasing the wine but that we had learned the word for 'wine', 'Lai sha ma' we told her was going to be a valuable addition to our vocabulary in China. She put her hand over her nouth, turned away and started to giggle. OK so our pronunciation wasn't the best but surely not that funny?
We looked at each other, perplexed, as she continued to rock back and forth laughing now out loud. "You were asking why? why? WHY? " she burst out..'Why?' we thought...'WHY?'.... no wonder they had looked puzzled as Alfred kept repeating the Chinese word joyously to them! What is the word then we asked...'Tcho' she replied 'TCHO' we all repeated..and you can imagine perhaps how often and how confidently we used that word thereafter!! (For any of you visiting China "Great Wall" Cabernet is the best red we tasted...and we did that...often!)
It was a miserable, grey day outside as we drove through the crowded streets of Xi'an and out beyond the city limits to Pit 1 of the huge excavation site where the Terracotta Warriers had been found.
One day in 1974 a farmer and his friends were drilling for water and discovered to their surprise, pottery fragments and bronze weapons in the soil beneath them. These they took to be examined by experts and further excavation over a few years revealed the massive 3 pits covering an area of 20,000 square meters which proved to be the burial pit of China's first feudal Emperor, Quin Shi Huan. 8,000 Terracotta armoured warriers and horses and more than 100 chariots were buried there! This has become the on site Museum which we visited. There has been on going excavation ever since the first discovery and the tomb is more than 2,200years old! It is now on UNESCO's list as a world class heritage site.
I have always wanted to see these warriers, from the day I first learned of their discovery. They have somehow fed my imagination and wonder but I never imagined I would have the opportunity to do so. Believe me when I say they do not disappoint. I stared down at their faces, a dusty ochre in colour, each one different, marching forward silently through eternity...it was an awe inspiring sight They stretch into the distance under the vast concrete 'tent' that is their shelter and we all stared in amazement at this masterpiece of human creation. The men who made them were buried alive as were more than a thousand concubines to serve their master in death. Here was almost mystical creation coupled with the dreadful destruction of human life. That it occurred two thousand years ago does not lessen the horror of the act or the enormity of the human skill on display.
We seemed each to be in our own minds as we walked slowly around, absorbing and seeing but not sharing our thoughts and reactions. This was the burial place of more than an Emperor, somewhere here were the remains of thousands of human beings, victims of one man's colossal ego. The early Killing Fields of China? But it is the wonder of human endeavour that ultimately triumphs and one feels insignificant in the face of it. I have rarely been so moved and humbled by art, because that is what this is...a monumental work of art.
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Xi'an
We arrived at the airport in good time for our flight and were able to wander around a little. It is another beautiful, modern almost barn like building. It is shaped, but I hadn't seen it then, like the huge structure which covers Pit 1 of the excavation of the Terracotta warriers! Check in was a breeze and I was persuaded to check in my back pack as I had a tube of toothpaste which was too large for the allowed amount of cream or paste. I never mind doing this as it frees me up to walk around stress free and in comfort.
There were others sharing the plane, (Eastern Airline), with us from Semester at Sea, (as we had shared their bus), who were staying another night in Xi'an and flying down to Shanghai. We on the other hand would be spending that night in a "soft sleeper' on the train.
The flight over Hong Kong was spectacular before we flew straight out to sea and then North West over land to the middle of China and Xi'an. The flight lasted two and a half hours, the last half hour through thick mist and fog. We could not see land or trees until we actually landed!
Again going through Customs was simple and smooth and I went ahead to meet our guide. Cindy was standing at the barrier carrying a sign reading Margaret Nan Thomas, so their was no mistaking her! Her first words when she saw me were "But where is your luggage?" This is it I said. She looked at us all suspiciously and said severely "You must have some luggage..no?" NO, we replied this is it! I thought oh dear she is going to be very rigid and strict. She was petite and quick., with medium length straight black hair and a very serious expression. She walked fast to the waiting 6 seater van and introduced us to our driver, Mr Lee.
'He is the second fastest driver in Xi'an' she told us when we were driving off, 'Who is the fastest?' someone asked 'Oh he's dead, killed in motor accident' she replied and we realised that she was grinning mischievously...ah thank the lord she had a sense of humour!
It was about an hour's drive to our hotel, the Skytel, in the middle of the city. The entrance hall was Chinese grand. That is there were dark marble walls, a glistening chandelier above the reception desk and very little English was spoken. Cindy arranged our morning meeting time for 9 am and suggested we eat our first meal in the hotel dining room that evening.
Our rooms were clean, large and modern. There was a kettle, tea bags and two white mugs. The floor and walls of the bathroom were of marble and the carpet an uninspiring mustard colour. The beds were hard but I thought 'Good for my back!'. Terry and Alfred were next door.
Our dinner that evening was a very Chinese one and delicious. We had great fun attempting to make ourselves understood to the waiters and waitresses all formally dressed in black and white. Alfred is a natural comedian and we had hilarious conversations whilst using our chop sticks and trying to identify what we were eating. The back ground music to all this was Jewish. Next to us, behind a partial wooden partition was a group of Jewish men and women celebrating their Sabbath...they joined us again the next morning at breakfast when their enthusiastic chanting drowned out the possibility of much conversation!
There were others sharing the plane, (Eastern Airline), with us from Semester at Sea, (as we had shared their bus), who were staying another night in Xi'an and flying down to Shanghai. We on the other hand would be spending that night in a "soft sleeper' on the train.
The flight over Hong Kong was spectacular before we flew straight out to sea and then North West over land to the middle of China and Xi'an. The flight lasted two and a half hours, the last half hour through thick mist and fog. We could not see land or trees until we actually landed!
Again going through Customs was simple and smooth and I went ahead to meet our guide. Cindy was standing at the barrier carrying a sign reading Margaret Nan Thomas, so their was no mistaking her! Her first words when she saw me were "But where is your luggage?" This is it I said. She looked at us all suspiciously and said severely "You must have some luggage..no?" NO, we replied this is it! I thought oh dear she is going to be very rigid and strict. She was petite and quick., with medium length straight black hair and a very serious expression. She walked fast to the waiting 6 seater van and introduced us to our driver, Mr Lee.
'He is the second fastest driver in Xi'an' she told us when we were driving off, 'Who is the fastest?' someone asked 'Oh he's dead, killed in motor accident' she replied and we realised that she was grinning mischievously...ah thank the lord she had a sense of humour!
It was about an hour's drive to our hotel, the Skytel, in the middle of the city. The entrance hall was Chinese grand. That is there were dark marble walls, a glistening chandelier above the reception desk and very little English was spoken. Cindy arranged our morning meeting time for 9 am and suggested we eat our first meal in the hotel dining room that evening.
Our rooms were clean, large and modern. There was a kettle, tea bags and two white mugs. The floor and walls of the bathroom were of marble and the carpet an uninspiring mustard colour. The beds were hard but I thought 'Good for my back!'. Terry and Alfred were next door.
Our dinner that evening was a very Chinese one and delicious. We had great fun attempting to make ourselves understood to the waiters and waitresses all formally dressed in black and white. Alfred is a natural comedian and we had hilarious conversations whilst using our chop sticks and trying to identify what we were eating. The back ground music to all this was Jewish. Next to us, behind a partial wooden partition was a group of Jewish men and women celebrating their Sabbath...they joined us again the next morning at breakfast when their enthusiastic chanting drowned out the possibility of much conversation!
Monday, November 7, 2011
Goodbye Hong Kong! 4th November
We have had a brief but enjoyable stay in Hong kong. Hard to believe we only arrived here yesterday morning.
At 11 am we, that is Terry, Alfred, Jane, Patrick and ourselved took the subway to the jade market. We had so much walking to do to reach the train I thought we should have been about level with the market but no....we got off it at the second stop and then walked back.
While Jane Terry and I walked slowly round the steaming market the three men sat in an Indian restaurant drinking beer...sensible guys! I did buy a few pieces: bracelet, pendant and another Budha to add to my collection. I now have 6 on board, apart from a Budha pendant I love and bought for about four dollars in Vietnam! At home there await my Dad's lovely, serene brass one which has travelled the world with our family for nearly eighty years and started the whole collection, my favourite jade one bought last year at the same jade market here and a tiny green jade one bought in a Chinese shop I used to frequent in Hamilton. I must have been Budhist in a past life and may very well become one again in this life!
We had a lovely Chinese lunch in a purely Chinese restaurant and then walked, God help me, back to the ship. Hence a really bad back this morning which makes me feel a hundred years old! I also seem to have a rheumatism in one of my toes so I truly feel decrepid! I have attempted to make my back pack as light as it can possibly be but it's amazing how hard that is....do I really need this stuff? Apparently I do!
Last night we all succumbed and had a Vietnamese meal in the mall right where we are berthed. Lovely and cool and the food superb. We have met such great people on the ship this year. Brenda and Steve Malloy also joined us for supper...Amy Unruh has gone off to Tibet! Looking forward very much to hearing about that trip when we all get back to the ship in Shanghai. The monks are not happy there and the group is being very restricted in their movements.
So we set off to the airport by taxi (unless we can hitch a bus ride from an SAS group who are leaving at the same time, same flight. Not striclty allowed but we'll ask the powers that be and see if it can be arranged.
Later...much later! Tuesday 7th nov.
We did indeed receive permission to travel to the airport on an SAS bus. Alfred and George said Oh no we shouldn't ask...not done. However I thought that foolish and went through the authorities myself and was givven immediate permission by both the purser's office and the staff. As there were only 8 peoplec travelling on the same flight as ourselves to Xi'an it would have been churlish of them to refuse four seats in a bus built to carry at least 30 passengers! I even offered to pay a fare and was turned down on that score so all was well and our ride to the airport smooth and worry free.
More on Xi'an and our train trip to Shanghai later.
At 11 am we, that is Terry, Alfred, Jane, Patrick and ourselved took the subway to the jade market. We had so much walking to do to reach the train I thought we should have been about level with the market but no....we got off it at the second stop and then walked back.
While Jane Terry and I walked slowly round the steaming market the three men sat in an Indian restaurant drinking beer...sensible guys! I did buy a few pieces: bracelet, pendant and another Budha to add to my collection. I now have 6 on board, apart from a Budha pendant I love and bought for about four dollars in Vietnam! At home there await my Dad's lovely, serene brass one which has travelled the world with our family for nearly eighty years and started the whole collection, my favourite jade one bought last year at the same jade market here and a tiny green jade one bought in a Chinese shop I used to frequent in Hamilton. I must have been Budhist in a past life and may very well become one again in this life!
We had a lovely Chinese lunch in a purely Chinese restaurant and then walked, God help me, back to the ship. Hence a really bad back this morning which makes me feel a hundred years old! I also seem to have a rheumatism in one of my toes so I truly feel decrepid! I have attempted to make my back pack as light as it can possibly be but it's amazing how hard that is....do I really need this stuff? Apparently I do!
Last night we all succumbed and had a Vietnamese meal in the mall right where we are berthed. Lovely and cool and the food superb. We have met such great people on the ship this year. Brenda and Steve Malloy also joined us for supper...Amy Unruh has gone off to Tibet! Looking forward very much to hearing about that trip when we all get back to the ship in Shanghai. The monks are not happy there and the group is being very restricted in their movements.
So we set off to the airport by taxi (unless we can hitch a bus ride from an SAS group who are leaving at the same time, same flight. Not striclty allowed but we'll ask the powers that be and see if it can be arranged.
Later...much later! Tuesday 7th nov.
We did indeed receive permission to travel to the airport on an SAS bus. Alfred and George said Oh no we shouldn't ask...not done. However I thought that foolish and went through the authorities myself and was givven immediate permission by both the purser's office and the staff. As there were only 8 peoplec travelling on the same flight as ourselves to Xi'an it would have been churlish of them to refuse four seats in a bus built to carry at least 30 passengers! I even offered to pay a fare and was turned down on that score so all was well and our ride to the airport smooth and worry free.
More on Xi'an and our train trip to Shanghai later.
Monday, October 31, 2011
Vietnam information for travellers.
A few points about life in Vietnam:
1) When you go to a hospital in Saigon to have your child you may end up on a mattress on the floor surrounded by other mothers about to give birth. There is apparently a huge shortage of beds.
2) If someone in your family says to you 'You are too thin and ugly!' it is a compliment becuse it shows they care!! Thin seems to equal ugly for some reason...
3) Many people in South East Asia are Lactose intolerant because in early times they were not nomadic, not herders of cattle, and so went straight from hunter-gathering to farming.
4) Among the Montagnards, a people of the mountains, in the area called Dalat, the women choose the men who are to be their partners for life. The man then becomes a possession of the woman's family.
5) The religions of Vietnam are Budhism (80%) Christianity (10%)
others, including Hinduism, the remainder.
6) Politicians in Hanoi are corrupt and hypocritical and their children rich and spoiled. The son of the 'second in command' to the President, (for want of a better description!) bought 27 BMW cars for his friends and had a race...using his father's money and prestige.
7) Our guide to Phan Thiet, Thien, is the son of a farmer, one of nine children. He has a wife and one small child, a son. His mission in life is to protect and take care of them. He is also ambitious and works extremely hard to support them. He is a University graduate, speaks very good English that is self taught. He is also teaching himself Spanish to get a better position and he speaks some Russian and Chinese. He is happy now to be paid a salary rather than working for very little on commission. He has travelled to Hong Kong and lived there as an exile for 8 years. He and his family live in a small apartment in Saigon. To get home he has to travel by bus for an hour and then walk half a mile. He left us at about 7.30 pm so would not be home until about 9.30 pm. He had to be back at the Port to accompany another group by 7 am the following morning!
8) Taxi drivers can be corrupt and it is only sensible to use recommended cabs. Those near the Port are notorious. They have no meters and will agree a price, then put it up and lock all doors so that you are literally trapped into paying. They can become very aggressive if they don't receive what they ask for and shout at their passengers. A number of students had been badly scared by their behaviour.
9) However...most Vietnamese who we met were delightful, very friendly and helpful. We met only a few who spoke good English and making oneself understood is certainly part of the fun...knowing how to mime successfully helps! It is also very difficult to understand Vietnamese English!
10) It is possible in Saigon to go to a tailor, be measured and have a suit or shirts ready for pick up in under a day. The measurements are then stored and clothes may then be ordered in the future from the US and Canada. Many women on the ship either bought stunning silk and other fabrics and/or had dresses made in a similarly short time...all the finished products that I have seen fit beautifully and are professionally finished and tailored. Very impressive!
11) Vietnamese food is delicious! It is influenced by both Chinese and Indian fare and the spices used are delicate and peppery, rarely overpowering. It is almost as good as Thai food and better than Chinese.
Lemongrass is a very popular ingredient, as are soy, tofu, sesame seed, coconut and peanuts. Desserts and fruit drinks often contain a delicious vanilla ice cream. Most are very sweet! Instant coffee is sweetened as is yoghurt.
12) Architecture is an interesting mix of Chinese, French Colonial and typically Vietnamese structures. The Opera House in Saigon is a copy of the Opera House in Paris. On our way to Phan Thiet I noticed that the residences behind the shop lined streets were ornate, tall, narrow and sometimes three or four stories high. The more modest houses, between the shop fronts, were small and square, some with beautiful and simple Art Decco designs (reminiscent of Renee McIntosh)adorning the exterior walls and window panes. Others appeared more elaborate and rather Indian...to my eyes. The streets are very French with trees running down their centres and sides, giving much needed shade.
There is a huge amount of new building going on in Saigon. The Koreans are known as good builders and are constructing expensive looking apartment complexes and offices everywhere. The skyline of the city has changed in the last 18 months with many more skyscrapers of varying heights and shapes are sprouting up. If we ever return it will no doubt have metamorphasised into a Hong Kong-like city.
13) Lastly, and surprisingly, the Vietnamese LOVE Halloween and there are the scariest masks for sale that I have ever seen!
1) When you go to a hospital in Saigon to have your child you may end up on a mattress on the floor surrounded by other mothers about to give birth. There is apparently a huge shortage of beds.
2) If someone in your family says to you 'You are too thin and ugly!' it is a compliment becuse it shows they care!! Thin seems to equal ugly for some reason...
3) Many people in South East Asia are Lactose intolerant because in early times they were not nomadic, not herders of cattle, and so went straight from hunter-gathering to farming.
4) Among the Montagnards, a people of the mountains, in the area called Dalat, the women choose the men who are to be their partners for life. The man then becomes a possession of the woman's family.
5) The religions of Vietnam are Budhism (80%) Christianity (10%)
others, including Hinduism, the remainder.
6) Politicians in Hanoi are corrupt and hypocritical and their children rich and spoiled. The son of the 'second in command' to the President, (for want of a better description!) bought 27 BMW cars for his friends and had a race...using his father's money and prestige.
7) Our guide to Phan Thiet, Thien, is the son of a farmer, one of nine children. He has a wife and one small child, a son. His mission in life is to protect and take care of them. He is also ambitious and works extremely hard to support them. He is a University graduate, speaks very good English that is self taught. He is also teaching himself Spanish to get a better position and he speaks some Russian and Chinese. He is happy now to be paid a salary rather than working for very little on commission. He has travelled to Hong Kong and lived there as an exile for 8 years. He and his family live in a small apartment in Saigon. To get home he has to travel by bus for an hour and then walk half a mile. He left us at about 7.30 pm so would not be home until about 9.30 pm. He had to be back at the Port to accompany another group by 7 am the following morning!
8) Taxi drivers can be corrupt and it is only sensible to use recommended cabs. Those near the Port are notorious. They have no meters and will agree a price, then put it up and lock all doors so that you are literally trapped into paying. They can become very aggressive if they don't receive what they ask for and shout at their passengers. A number of students had been badly scared by their behaviour.
9) However...most Vietnamese who we met were delightful, very friendly and helpful. We met only a few who spoke good English and making oneself understood is certainly part of the fun...knowing how to mime successfully helps! It is also very difficult to understand Vietnamese English!
10) It is possible in Saigon to go to a tailor, be measured and have a suit or shirts ready for pick up in under a day. The measurements are then stored and clothes may then be ordered in the future from the US and Canada. Many women on the ship either bought stunning silk and other fabrics and/or had dresses made in a similarly short time...all the finished products that I have seen fit beautifully and are professionally finished and tailored. Very impressive!
11) Vietnamese food is delicious! It is influenced by both Chinese and Indian fare and the spices used are delicate and peppery, rarely overpowering. It is almost as good as Thai food and better than Chinese.
Lemongrass is a very popular ingredient, as are soy, tofu, sesame seed, coconut and peanuts. Desserts and fruit drinks often contain a delicious vanilla ice cream. Most are very sweet! Instant coffee is sweetened as is yoghurt.
12) Architecture is an interesting mix of Chinese, French Colonial and typically Vietnamese structures. The Opera House in Saigon is a copy of the Opera House in Paris. On our way to Phan Thiet I noticed that the residences behind the shop lined streets were ornate, tall, narrow and sometimes three or four stories high. The more modest houses, between the shop fronts, were small and square, some with beautiful and simple Art Decco designs (reminiscent of Renee McIntosh)adorning the exterior walls and window panes. Others appeared more elaborate and rather Indian...to my eyes. The streets are very French with trees running down their centres and sides, giving much needed shade.
There is a huge amount of new building going on in Saigon. The Koreans are known as good builders and are constructing expensive looking apartment complexes and offices everywhere. The skyline of the city has changed in the last 18 months with many more skyscrapers of varying heights and shapes are sprouting up. If we ever return it will no doubt have metamorphasised into a Hong Kong-like city.
13) Lastly, and surprisingly, the Vietnamese LOVE Halloween and there are the scariest masks for sale that I have ever seen!
Friday, October 28, 2011
Good morning Vietnam!
Good morning Vietnam! That was how Thien our guide greeted us when we boarded the bus for Phan Thiet. This very slim, attractive young man (36 years old but looks twenty!)was with us through the next three days as we travelled the four and a half journey by road from Saigon to Phan Thiet and our coastal resort in the village of Mui Ne.
It sounds as though the drive must be a long one in kilometres but it is only 200 kms in all. The slowness is caused by the length of time we took to get out of the city of Saigon, weaving our way through the hundreds of tightly packed motor bikes, mopeds and even the occasional brave cyclist. The 'riders' are evenly divided between the sexes and all wear helmets or the wide cone shaped hats we became used to seeing on newsreels during the Vietnam (or American as the Vietnamese prefer to call it)war. The women wear masks which hide three quarters of their faces, the eyes barely peeping above, long sleeves and looses trouses or very short skirts. Fairness is desireable among oriental women and the masks are to avoid the darkening rays of the sun and the inhalation of fumes and infections. Even very old women, walking and carrying rods across their shoulders with baskets at each end, wear these masks for protection.
Eventually after about two hours of travelling we drove into relatively rural areas with hills, Mango and Australian flame trees and gardens blooming with hibiscus, frangipani and beauganvillia and ultimately as we neared our destination Dragonfruit farms. Dragonfruit plants are like weeping cacti, all the 2 inch wide cactus type branches surrounding the thick stem and reaching for the ground. They are only two or three feet high. The flesh is white with tiny black edible seeds and has a delicate flavour which easily becomes bland if the fruit is not fresh.
It is a joyful moment to catch a sudden glimpse of the sea in the distance even though we have been sailing upon it for months! Somehow where it laps and caresses the shore it is made even more beautiful no matter what its mood. This was certainly the case when we drove into the Romana Resort and Spa in Mui Ne. Our rooms were airy and comfortable with small balconies overlooking the swimming pool and beach.
We were here for three days and two nights of supposed relaxation. However, when I heard the plans for the following day I wondered if the word relaxation had been slipped out of the itinerary. We were to drive over sand dunes in old Russian Jeeps and eat out later in a Vietnamese restaurant. The return time to the hotel was billed at 12.30 but, as we say in Scotland, 'Ah ha'ed ma dootes!' (I had my doubts!) I decided immediately to stay beside the tempting and very large swimming pool, enjoying a cooling sea breeze under a wide umbrella. I have reached the delicious age of being able to do whatever I like short of harm and suicide!
So...while George, who was leading this trip and had no choice, and 15 students went off to experience the dunes and the excellent restaurant the following day I stayed behind and relaxed. I was right in my prediction and it was 4.30 pm and not 12.30 when they returned.
I met and chatted with a delightful couple while I lay there on my comfortable chaise longue, the breeze cooling my wet body (aaah!) and reading a great book. (Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese...excellent!) Anh and Bill Wise were from the States, she Vietnamese and he, quite a few years older, from Michigan originally. They had met on a plane a year ago and been married for only a few months. She has lived in the States for three years with her daughter who owns L'il Tokyo, a Japanese restaurant in Myrtle Beach. Until she met Bill Anh had spoken little English and it still does not come easily to her. She is small, pretty and very sweet, he a gentle and friendly man...probably in his late sixties. They had been given these days at the Spa as a fiftieth birthday present for Anh from her daughter and Australian son-in-law who live in Saigon. She proudly showed me a photograph of her new, 3 week old, grandson. Anh also helped me explain what I wanted for lunch to the non-English speaking but very willing waiters who served us our food where we lay...luxury! Since marrying Anh, Bill has sold up his home of thirty years in Florida and moved to Myrtle Beach. While she was swimming he said to me 'She is a wonderful woman and her children treat me like a King! They venerate their elders in Vietnam!' He also told me that his friends had warned him that Anh was marrying him for his money, so he told them, 'Well she can have it all, I don't care because I love her!' I had no doubts at all that this was truly a love match, their attentiveness and delight in each other's company was plain for all to see. Interestingly Bill is a Vietnam veteran.
When the others returned from their 'relaxing' day they plunged straight into the pool and, although they had enjoyed their experiences, most told me that they had been envying my choice to stay behind! It is a powerful heat here in Vietnam for those unaccustomed to it...I had no occasion to regret my decision.
Our meals at the resort were fabulous: decorative and colourful and extremely tasty. The squid were amazing...not at all 'chewy' and most fragrantly flavoured. Lemongrass and sesame are both used generously. Salads were delicious and the fruit drinks loaded with banana, mango, guava and pineapple... scrumptious. I found I was craving fruit as I do whenever I am too long denied it. Melon and canned fruit just doesn't cut it for me. I probably overloaded on all that sugar but it was well worth it.
We drove through a huge storm on our way back to the ship last night. We had all had a truly relaxing morning round the pool followed by a delicious lunch before setting off for Saigon at 1 pm. We didn't reach the ship until 7.30 pm! Thunder growled and lightening, both sheet and fork, lit and cracked the skies which were dark and ominous between flashes. The drivers of motor bikes on both sides of us, attempting to get home no doubt, were covered, both rider and passenger, with huge waterproof capes. The rain was drenching and blinding them nevertheless and many stopped by the roadside. It all suddenly ceased just in time for us to climb the second deck (not the 5th thank the Lord!) gangway into our 'safe house' the Explorer! We ended our day with cheese burgers and french fries on the 7th deck...ex-SASers will appreciate that we had missed dinner!
Our guide Thien proved to be mine of information and spoke wonderful English. I shall speak more of what we lerned from him in a later blog. Our driver had to drop us off and then turn round and drive to Na Trang to pick up another group of tourists. We flew to Na Trang last year and the drive would take him TEN HOURS! That is being dangerously overworked. Life is not easy for the average Vietnamese, they work extremely hard for low wages and my impression is that major funding provided by the Government in Hanoi goes to North Vietnam whereas the south is expected to make up the loss by catering to Tourism. Everywhere we have visited Corruption in high places is spoken of as the root cause of hardship. The people in the South however have not lost their capacity for friendship and generosity and they have made us feel most welcome.
It sounds as though the drive must be a long one in kilometres but it is only 200 kms in all. The slowness is caused by the length of time we took to get out of the city of Saigon, weaving our way through the hundreds of tightly packed motor bikes, mopeds and even the occasional brave cyclist. The 'riders' are evenly divided between the sexes and all wear helmets or the wide cone shaped hats we became used to seeing on newsreels during the Vietnam (or American as the Vietnamese prefer to call it)war. The women wear masks which hide three quarters of their faces, the eyes barely peeping above, long sleeves and looses trouses or very short skirts. Fairness is desireable among oriental women and the masks are to avoid the darkening rays of the sun and the inhalation of fumes and infections. Even very old women, walking and carrying rods across their shoulders with baskets at each end, wear these masks for protection.
Eventually after about two hours of travelling we drove into relatively rural areas with hills, Mango and Australian flame trees and gardens blooming with hibiscus, frangipani and beauganvillia and ultimately as we neared our destination Dragonfruit farms. Dragonfruit plants are like weeping cacti, all the 2 inch wide cactus type branches surrounding the thick stem and reaching for the ground. They are only two or three feet high. The flesh is white with tiny black edible seeds and has a delicate flavour which easily becomes bland if the fruit is not fresh.
It is a joyful moment to catch a sudden glimpse of the sea in the distance even though we have been sailing upon it for months! Somehow where it laps and caresses the shore it is made even more beautiful no matter what its mood. This was certainly the case when we drove into the Romana Resort and Spa in Mui Ne. Our rooms were airy and comfortable with small balconies overlooking the swimming pool and beach.
We were here for three days and two nights of supposed relaxation. However, when I heard the plans for the following day I wondered if the word relaxation had been slipped out of the itinerary. We were to drive over sand dunes in old Russian Jeeps and eat out later in a Vietnamese restaurant. The return time to the hotel was billed at 12.30 but, as we say in Scotland, 'Ah ha'ed ma dootes!' (I had my doubts!) I decided immediately to stay beside the tempting and very large swimming pool, enjoying a cooling sea breeze under a wide umbrella. I have reached the delicious age of being able to do whatever I like short of harm and suicide!
So...while George, who was leading this trip and had no choice, and 15 students went off to experience the dunes and the excellent restaurant the following day I stayed behind and relaxed. I was right in my prediction and it was 4.30 pm and not 12.30 when they returned.
I met and chatted with a delightful couple while I lay there on my comfortable chaise longue, the breeze cooling my wet body (aaah!) and reading a great book. (Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese...excellent!) Anh and Bill Wise were from the States, she Vietnamese and he, quite a few years older, from Michigan originally. They had met on a plane a year ago and been married for only a few months. She has lived in the States for three years with her daughter who owns L'il Tokyo, a Japanese restaurant in Myrtle Beach. Until she met Bill Anh had spoken little English and it still does not come easily to her. She is small, pretty and very sweet, he a gentle and friendly man...probably in his late sixties. They had been given these days at the Spa as a fiftieth birthday present for Anh from her daughter and Australian son-in-law who live in Saigon. She proudly showed me a photograph of her new, 3 week old, grandson. Anh also helped me explain what I wanted for lunch to the non-English speaking but very willing waiters who served us our food where we lay...luxury! Since marrying Anh, Bill has sold up his home of thirty years in Florida and moved to Myrtle Beach. While she was swimming he said to me 'She is a wonderful woman and her children treat me like a King! They venerate their elders in Vietnam!' He also told me that his friends had warned him that Anh was marrying him for his money, so he told them, 'Well she can have it all, I don't care because I love her!' I had no doubts at all that this was truly a love match, their attentiveness and delight in each other's company was plain for all to see. Interestingly Bill is a Vietnam veteran.
When the others returned from their 'relaxing' day they plunged straight into the pool and, although they had enjoyed their experiences, most told me that they had been envying my choice to stay behind! It is a powerful heat here in Vietnam for those unaccustomed to it...I had no occasion to regret my decision.
Our meals at the resort were fabulous: decorative and colourful and extremely tasty. The squid were amazing...not at all 'chewy' and most fragrantly flavoured. Lemongrass and sesame are both used generously. Salads were delicious and the fruit drinks loaded with banana, mango, guava and pineapple... scrumptious. I found I was craving fruit as I do whenever I am too long denied it. Melon and canned fruit just doesn't cut it for me. I probably overloaded on all that sugar but it was well worth it.
We drove through a huge storm on our way back to the ship last night. We had all had a truly relaxing morning round the pool followed by a delicious lunch before setting off for Saigon at 1 pm. We didn't reach the ship until 7.30 pm! Thunder growled and lightening, both sheet and fork, lit and cracked the skies which were dark and ominous between flashes. The drivers of motor bikes on both sides of us, attempting to get home no doubt, were covered, both rider and passenger, with huge waterproof capes. The rain was drenching and blinding them nevertheless and many stopped by the roadside. It all suddenly ceased just in time for us to climb the second deck (not the 5th thank the Lord!) gangway into our 'safe house' the Explorer! We ended our day with cheese burgers and french fries on the 7th deck...ex-SASers will appreciate that we had missed dinner!
Our guide Thien proved to be mine of information and spoke wonderful English. I shall speak more of what we lerned from him in a later blog. Our driver had to drop us off and then turn round and drive to Na Trang to pick up another group of tourists. We flew to Na Trang last year and the drive would take him TEN HOURS! That is being dangerously overworked. Life is not easy for the average Vietnamese, they work extremely hard for low wages and my impression is that major funding provided by the Government in Hanoi goes to North Vietnam whereas the south is expected to make up the loss by catering to Tourism. Everywhere we have visited Corruption in high places is spoken of as the root cause of hardship. The people in the South however have not lost their capacity for friendship and generosity and they have made us feel most welcome.
Friday, October 21, 2011
Penang....Pearl of the Orient
Penang has been called the Pearl of the Orient and it is a title well and truly deserved. From the densely forested hills to the quaint Malay villages, from little India in George Town to the glorious beaches and Cuasarina trees of the coast, the fishing villages and unspoiled islands nearby it is a travellers' paradise.
Life on board ship can be exhilarating of course but living in each other's pockets and the repetitive rhythm of life on a teaching vessel can also be stifling. We all needed a break I think...I certainly did.
George had to lead an FDP (student practica)in the morning. It was called Ethnic Communities. We set off just after 10.30 am in an air conditioned bus with an excellent Malay-Chinese Guide called Elizabeth....no difficult name to pronounce here. She spoke absolutely accentless English was charming and very large. When I later spoke to Elizabeth about herself she said in response to a question, "No I am not narried. Why should I marry? I love my job and my life, I live in a loving family yet feel very much my own woman. I don't need a man." We drove first through George Town and I was amazed to see how much it had grown in the last quarter century...although really why should I be, it's a long time since I was there! There are old and beautiful colonial buildings huddled under tall skyscrapers, ancient houses blackened with damp fungus and low colourful stores hiding down lanes and around corners. There is a heady mixture of old and new, East and West, Colonial and traditional....and among it all are huge trees with hanging vines and enormous trunks that must have stood there for who knows how long.
The roads are such a change after India. They are well marked and sign posted, the cars keep within the prescribed lanes and obey the traffic lights and one occasionally hears a horn. After India what a treat are these signs of order and sanity. There is less colour and noise and chaos, there are fewer spicey smells pervading the air but we were more than ready for this comparitive calm!
We visited a traditional Malay village, a fishing port and a batik factory with a tempting shop attached. I tried on two attractive tops one being quite a bit cheaper than the other. So, feeling very sensible (and as it was quite beautiful and classy) I chose the cheaper one. George bought himself a batik shirt, took both to the cashier and paid for them. When I joined him outside a few minutes later he said "You do realise that we have just spent US$100.00!" I was taken aback at the price of his shirt...'Well mine wasn't expensive ' I said smugly 'how much was your shirt?' 'twenty four dollars' he replied. Oops. On the bus I took out my 'cheap' top only to discover that the price on it did not match the sign above the rack which I was sure I had seen. It was pure silk and had cost almost $80.00! Too late...the bus was on its way so all I could do was apologise profusely...and pat myself silently on the back for my excellent taste!
We were getting hungry and it was well after 2 pm when we headed for the immediate chaos of Little India streets...in fact they were far too narrow for the bus so we once again walked through the wonderful muddle that seems to be India. We came to an Indian restaurant and were herded up the stairs to a dining room with one very long table. There must have been at least eight waiters who descended upon us, took our orders and then gave everyone the wrong thing. No matter we sorted ourselves out and started to eat. Mine was sooo hot and spicy that ultimately I could only manage to swallow the rice...and I am a curry lover! Luckily there were lots of interesting 'bits' in it so I enjoyed the meal..others were not so fortunate and were gulping down water...which doesn't help a bit, beer is better..but we asked for cucumber and yoghurt and that helped a few students get the food down!
When we finally descended the stairs to leave we discovered Elizabeth standing with an umbrella at the entrance saying 'We have to stay we cannot venture out in this' and she was right. It was pouring down in buckets....beautiful for all tropical rain lovers of whom I am one. So we seated ourselves in the lower portion of the restaurant and gazed longingly at the front counter where bowls of wonderful looking stews and colourful side dishes were laid our under glass...we would have much preferred to choose what we could see on the lower level.
After about twenty minutes or so the rain eased off and we ran down the streets until we met the bus on the main road. We had lost time by then so had to head straight back to the ship. Those of you who know me well will understand what happened next.
George left the bus to check the students and see them back on board, I hauled our back packs out of the overhead compartments and heaved them to the front of the bus and down the stairs on to the docks. Steve Malloy who was coming with us to the hotel at Batu Ferringhi and had been on the trip went to the ship to fetch his wife while I said goodbye and thank you to Elizabeth....and the bus drove off. George reappeared and as I was putting our stuff on to a trolley to wheel out of the port he looked at it and asked "You did bring the bag with the things we bought did you?" My heart sank...'Oh my God...you didn't?!' Oh yes...I had left the plastic bag containing his shirt and my $80.00 top on the bus! I grovelled in abject apology yet again and he flew back on to the ship, reported it to the agents who were on board and, to cut a long story short, the missing bag was delivered to the ship and given to us when we returned tonight. Mea culpa! Mea culpa!
Months ago I had looked for a hotel similar to the one I stayed at when I travelled alone many years ago to Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore but Penang has grown beyong recognition immediately round George Town and hotels abound on Batu Ferringhi where I had been. Fortunately I mentioned this to a friend who had visited The Lone Pine Hotel and recommended it. What a total delight this place proved to be and after being taken round the old part, and seeing the beach in front of the old rooms and their white verandas I realised it was where I had stayed before!
However the Lone Pine has been renovated and opened again in November of last year. Our friends Brenda and Steve Malloy had asked what we were doing and whether we'd mind if they joined us, which we didn't, so they came with us.
The rains have come to Penang, wonderful, heavy, tropical rains. You can see the dark clouds approaching in the early afternoon and a cooling breeze gathers strength just before the downpour. But the mornings are heavenly with lots of sunshine. We had breakfast in the Bungalow dining room which remains from the old hotel. There is a colourful buffet with delicious fruits, yoghurts, croissants and other baked goodies in addition to western eggs personally cooked and exotic things like "Chicken porridge" (?!) and traditional porridge which resembles a rather watery cream of wheat...it didn't tempt me! There was much much more all laid out in the open dining room where we looked out on to the two swimming pools and the sea through the Cuasarina trees.
Our rooms were in the new building and were luxuriously furnished and very comfortable. Our balcony had the same view over the pools and out to sea. One of the things I enjoyed most was the enormous shower head which sprayed out comforting hot water in a very wide, high pressured waterfall. Fantastic...I could have stayed in there for hours!
We spent our mornings at the pool side under large umbrellas on comfortable chaises longues. We swam in the pool and then wandered on to the beach and enjoyed the ocean which was warmer and then back to the refreshing pool again! We ordered drinks like Singapore Slings and Mojitos and ate interesting lunches there on narrow rectangular white plates....their spring rolls were to die for! Because of the rain we had our evening meal in the hotel too although we had planned to walk further afield.
I cannot tell you the utter joy of waking up in the morning and knowing that the day stretched ahead, on terra firma, with no classes or meetings (and no students!), just to do with whatever we pleased. I enjoyed it all so much that returning to the ship today was quite difficult. Going back into the Glazer lounge for 5 pm drinks and socialising appealed only to George. I stayed in our cabin attempting to get myself psyched up for the onslaught!
I had a sad but huge laugh when I heard the story of our friends Alfred and Terry Hunt. They had planned a visit to the Cameron Highlands on the mainland and Terry had looked up the buses (vans) and all was to be quite straightforward. However when they reached the bus station at the stated time they found few English speakers and again to cut a long story short took the wrong van and ended up in Thailand! They realised how terribly wrong it had all gone when a taxi driver came up to them as they stepped out of the van and offered "Bangkok?' They had no Thai money on them (only Malaysian) and ended upin a pretty awful hotel for the night. They decided to come straight back to Penang the next morning in case there was any trouble at the border getting back. This is their third voyage like ourselves and they are well travelled but because they misunderstood the name of the city they went to (which they have blocked out of their memories!)when asking if it was the correct bus (it sounded like Cameron they said)their adventure came to naught in the sense that they didn't get to their desired destination. However any of you reading this who know Alfred (Jeannie and Brenda) will know that he is already living on the story and will do for years to come I have no doubt!
Life on board ship can be exhilarating of course but living in each other's pockets and the repetitive rhythm of life on a teaching vessel can also be stifling. We all needed a break I think...I certainly did.
George had to lead an FDP (student practica)in the morning. It was called Ethnic Communities. We set off just after 10.30 am in an air conditioned bus with an excellent Malay-Chinese Guide called Elizabeth....no difficult name to pronounce here. She spoke absolutely accentless English was charming and very large. When I later spoke to Elizabeth about herself she said in response to a question, "No I am not narried. Why should I marry? I love my job and my life, I live in a loving family yet feel very much my own woman. I don't need a man." We drove first through George Town and I was amazed to see how much it had grown in the last quarter century...although really why should I be, it's a long time since I was there! There are old and beautiful colonial buildings huddled under tall skyscrapers, ancient houses blackened with damp fungus and low colourful stores hiding down lanes and around corners. There is a heady mixture of old and new, East and West, Colonial and traditional....and among it all are huge trees with hanging vines and enormous trunks that must have stood there for who knows how long.
The roads are such a change after India. They are well marked and sign posted, the cars keep within the prescribed lanes and obey the traffic lights and one occasionally hears a horn. After India what a treat are these signs of order and sanity. There is less colour and noise and chaos, there are fewer spicey smells pervading the air but we were more than ready for this comparitive calm!
We visited a traditional Malay village, a fishing port and a batik factory with a tempting shop attached. I tried on two attractive tops one being quite a bit cheaper than the other. So, feeling very sensible (and as it was quite beautiful and classy) I chose the cheaper one. George bought himself a batik shirt, took both to the cashier and paid for them. When I joined him outside a few minutes later he said "You do realise that we have just spent US$100.00!" I was taken aback at the price of his shirt...'Well mine wasn't expensive ' I said smugly 'how much was your shirt?' 'twenty four dollars' he replied. Oops. On the bus I took out my 'cheap' top only to discover that the price on it did not match the sign above the rack which I was sure I had seen. It was pure silk and had cost almost $80.00! Too late...the bus was on its way so all I could do was apologise profusely...and pat myself silently on the back for my excellent taste!
We were getting hungry and it was well after 2 pm when we headed for the immediate chaos of Little India streets...in fact they were far too narrow for the bus so we once again walked through the wonderful muddle that seems to be India. We came to an Indian restaurant and were herded up the stairs to a dining room with one very long table. There must have been at least eight waiters who descended upon us, took our orders and then gave everyone the wrong thing. No matter we sorted ourselves out and started to eat. Mine was sooo hot and spicy that ultimately I could only manage to swallow the rice...and I am a curry lover! Luckily there were lots of interesting 'bits' in it so I enjoyed the meal..others were not so fortunate and were gulping down water...which doesn't help a bit, beer is better..but we asked for cucumber and yoghurt and that helped a few students get the food down!
When we finally descended the stairs to leave we discovered Elizabeth standing with an umbrella at the entrance saying 'We have to stay we cannot venture out in this' and she was right. It was pouring down in buckets....beautiful for all tropical rain lovers of whom I am one. So we seated ourselves in the lower portion of the restaurant and gazed longingly at the front counter where bowls of wonderful looking stews and colourful side dishes were laid our under glass...we would have much preferred to choose what we could see on the lower level.
After about twenty minutes or so the rain eased off and we ran down the streets until we met the bus on the main road. We had lost time by then so had to head straight back to the ship. Those of you who know me well will understand what happened next.
George left the bus to check the students and see them back on board, I hauled our back packs out of the overhead compartments and heaved them to the front of the bus and down the stairs on to the docks. Steve Malloy who was coming with us to the hotel at Batu Ferringhi and had been on the trip went to the ship to fetch his wife while I said goodbye and thank you to Elizabeth....and the bus drove off. George reappeared and as I was putting our stuff on to a trolley to wheel out of the port he looked at it and asked "You did bring the bag with the things we bought did you?" My heart sank...'Oh my God...you didn't?!' Oh yes...I had left the plastic bag containing his shirt and my $80.00 top on the bus! I grovelled in abject apology yet again and he flew back on to the ship, reported it to the agents who were on board and, to cut a long story short, the missing bag was delivered to the ship and given to us when we returned tonight. Mea culpa! Mea culpa!
Months ago I had looked for a hotel similar to the one I stayed at when I travelled alone many years ago to Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore but Penang has grown beyong recognition immediately round George Town and hotels abound on Batu Ferringhi where I had been. Fortunately I mentioned this to a friend who had visited The Lone Pine Hotel and recommended it. What a total delight this place proved to be and after being taken round the old part, and seeing the beach in front of the old rooms and their white verandas I realised it was where I had stayed before!
However the Lone Pine has been renovated and opened again in November of last year. Our friends Brenda and Steve Malloy had asked what we were doing and whether we'd mind if they joined us, which we didn't, so they came with us.
The rains have come to Penang, wonderful, heavy, tropical rains. You can see the dark clouds approaching in the early afternoon and a cooling breeze gathers strength just before the downpour. But the mornings are heavenly with lots of sunshine. We had breakfast in the Bungalow dining room which remains from the old hotel. There is a colourful buffet with delicious fruits, yoghurts, croissants and other baked goodies in addition to western eggs personally cooked and exotic things like "Chicken porridge" (?!) and traditional porridge which resembles a rather watery cream of wheat...it didn't tempt me! There was much much more all laid out in the open dining room where we looked out on to the two swimming pools and the sea through the Cuasarina trees.
Our rooms were in the new building and were luxuriously furnished and very comfortable. Our balcony had the same view over the pools and out to sea. One of the things I enjoyed most was the enormous shower head which sprayed out comforting hot water in a very wide, high pressured waterfall. Fantastic...I could have stayed in there for hours!
We spent our mornings at the pool side under large umbrellas on comfortable chaises longues. We swam in the pool and then wandered on to the beach and enjoyed the ocean which was warmer and then back to the refreshing pool again! We ordered drinks like Singapore Slings and Mojitos and ate interesting lunches there on narrow rectangular white plates....their spring rolls were to die for! Because of the rain we had our evening meal in the hotel too although we had planned to walk further afield.
I cannot tell you the utter joy of waking up in the morning and knowing that the day stretched ahead, on terra firma, with no classes or meetings (and no students!), just to do with whatever we pleased. I enjoyed it all so much that returning to the ship today was quite difficult. Going back into the Glazer lounge for 5 pm drinks and socialising appealed only to George. I stayed in our cabin attempting to get myself psyched up for the onslaught!
I had a sad but huge laugh when I heard the story of our friends Alfred and Terry Hunt. They had planned a visit to the Cameron Highlands on the mainland and Terry had looked up the buses (vans) and all was to be quite straightforward. However when they reached the bus station at the stated time they found few English speakers and again to cut a long story short took the wrong van and ended up in Thailand! They realised how terribly wrong it had all gone when a taxi driver came up to them as they stepped out of the van and offered "Bangkok?' They had no Thai money on them (only Malaysian) and ended upin a pretty awful hotel for the night. They decided to come straight back to Penang the next morning in case there was any trouble at the border getting back. This is their third voyage like ourselves and they are well travelled but because they misunderstood the name of the city they went to (which they have blocked out of their memories!)when asking if it was the correct bus (it sounded like Cameron they said)their adventure came to naught in the sense that they didn't get to their desired destination. However any of you reading this who know Alfred (Jeannie and Brenda) will know that he is already living on the story and will do for years to come I have no doubt!
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