We awoke to a brilliant, if slightly cool,spring day. Breakfast was at 8 am. Jeannie was sitting in the sun outside on the long stoep reading, George watching the weaver birds in the trees beside the swimming pool and Brenda and I came last. We wandered into the dining room/lounge and found a long wooden table beautifully set. Coffee, orange juice,fruit salad and yoghurt, beautiful grainy bread, eggs, bacon, mushrooms waiting on a hot plate, home made preserves and creamed butter...all laid out waiting.
We met Louis, Retief's partner, who chatted to us and helped Retief serve. What a delightful couple! We had been offered a packed picnic lunch the night before as we were setting off across the mountains to St Albert. Needless to say we accepted and later discovered a feast of salad, cherry tomatoes,dressing, sandwiches, chicken, pathe, tuna salad, biltong, coffee and Coke. We were being pampered and we loved it!
We were given an affectionate send off as we left and invited to join them for a braaivleis (BBQ) that evening....again we accepted. We left Calitzdorp and headed towards the mountains. As we climbed in altitude we were driving through sheer red rock faces with bright wild flowers wedged between crevices. The road dropped ominously hundreds of feet on one side but the views were breathtaking. We seemed to climb for ever, each rocky peak hiding others, our ears popped!
Eventually we started going down hill and we were soon in prince Albert, a typical but beautiful little Karoo town. Tree lined streets, lots of coloured faces with traces of Koi and San in their features, young people in the universal outfits we see on the streets at home, small shops and no highrises or malls (fantastic!!) just old houses with wide verandas and bright flowering bushes in the neat gardens. As always the township a short distance away but with neat brick and clay houses with small gardens and children playing soccer in well kept sports fields...always the sounds of voices laughing, shouting, talking. Much more life going on it seemed in the coloured community than the white.
I am using the word 'coloured' as in 'Cape coloureds', used only in this part of South Africa...as opposed to Bantu or Black...left over from unofficial and official Apartheid for many years. There is such an exotic mixture of races in the Cape: Koi, San, Bushmen, (the original inhabitants who were wiped out with the coming of the white man) Malay, Portuguese, Dutch, French Hugenot ,English and on and on....everyone who ever landed on this fertile land and brought disease, knowledge, hard work, produce,patience and desperation to this 'new' (to Europeans) continent, fell in love with it's beauty and opportunity and stayed.
The Karoo is immense scrub-bush country with farm upon 'invisible' farm....ostrich, sheep, cattle, goats, maize, wheat. Such huge acreage that the boundaries are difficult to see amongst the mountains, kopjies, dams and windmills. Every now and then an oasis of eucalyptus and gum trees surround a low homestead with cats and dogs lounging...often no sign of human habitation although it's obviously there...somewhere! It is wonderfully quiet country apart from the wind sometimes and the shouts of children.
Friday, September 30, 2011
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
South Africa
Where to begin? Imagine this: Four excited people, a Toyota Corolla and the open road! Our destination? Calitzdorp, a five hour drive from Cape Town in the Klein Karoo. Under the shelter of Table Mountain, the so familiar guardian which kept watch over me for so many years of my young life, (my boarding school on its slopes), we four pack away our back packs (could be the first line of a new song) into the spacious boot/trunk (bilingual now!) and fasten our seat belts for the long ride. George takes the wheel and keeps it for the next five days.
We speed out of Cape Town, past the townships, looking a little more ordered than last year, minimally more prosperous....still a HUGE discrepancy in this country between rich and poor...and out into open country, farm lands and vineyards. We climb over the mountain ranges which separate this lush scenery for the scrub and brilliant wild flowers which carpet the Karoo in the spring....if the rain has come which it had finally after 3 years of drought. Dense splashes of colour: reds, mauves, purples, all shades of yellow to orange..bringing to vivid life the usually arid scrub. I had never seen the Karoo in the spring and this year it put on an incredible show for us!
We had had our Calitzdorp booking cancelled at the last moment and I had to make a pretty quick decision as to where we would lodge. I liked to look of a place called The Soeterus Guest House: it had luxurious looking bedrooms and provided breakfast and other meals should you want them. We arrived in the typical little Afrikaans Karoo town shortly after 5 pm and drove down a dusty unpaved road to find the Soeterus. Here it was, a high gate and a sudden sharp turn to a steep driveway and down into the car park. A young sweet faced man came to meet us 'Retief?' I asked and it was. Dark hair, gentle brown eyes and a welcoming smile....we had corresponded hurriedly and briefly. He immediately offered us tea or coffee and took us to the dining/lounge which was high and roomy, a converted shed most beautifully done with a bamboo ceiling and rough rafters, old locally made 'Dutch' furniture, a door into Retief's kitchen.
'Come with and I'll show you your rooms' he said in typical abbreviated South African fashion. We had almost identical twin bedded rooms, again high ceilings and stone walls, warm wooden furniture, sophisticated curtains and padded head boards and a small vase of garden cut flowers....perfect!
We showered and changed and rushed to meet Trevor and Joan Teeton (Joan and I were childhood friends) who had arranged dinner for us in the Zamani restaurant in Calitzdorp. It was lovely to see them again after nearly 10 years (yes we had all aged!) and we had a nice home cooked dinner in a cosy combination of store and dining room. Good conversation with Joan but so sad to hear of the loss of a mutual school friend to cancer. Phillida, who had, with Jean and Sally, arranged such a fantastic buffet lunch for my Shongololo group (remember Frances?) at Jean's lovely home on the sea front in Boulders. We had coffeed together, the four of us, two years ago at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town...as Sally said to me on the phone this morning 'Well Maggie it's our age, we seem to be dropping like flies!' Nice thought!!
We all dropped into bed and asleep within seconds that night...we had planned an exciting day on Saturday, South African Heritage day.
We speed out of Cape Town, past the townships, looking a little more ordered than last year, minimally more prosperous....still a HUGE discrepancy in this country between rich and poor...and out into open country, farm lands and vineyards. We climb over the mountain ranges which separate this lush scenery for the scrub and brilliant wild flowers which carpet the Karoo in the spring....if the rain has come which it had finally after 3 years of drought. Dense splashes of colour: reds, mauves, purples, all shades of yellow to orange..bringing to vivid life the usually arid scrub. I had never seen the Karoo in the spring and this year it put on an incredible show for us!
We had had our Calitzdorp booking cancelled at the last moment and I had to make a pretty quick decision as to where we would lodge. I liked to look of a place called The Soeterus Guest House: it had luxurious looking bedrooms and provided breakfast and other meals should you want them. We arrived in the typical little Afrikaans Karoo town shortly after 5 pm and drove down a dusty unpaved road to find the Soeterus. Here it was, a high gate and a sudden sharp turn to a steep driveway and down into the car park. A young sweet faced man came to meet us 'Retief?' I asked and it was. Dark hair, gentle brown eyes and a welcoming smile....we had corresponded hurriedly and briefly. He immediately offered us tea or coffee and took us to the dining/lounge which was high and roomy, a converted shed most beautifully done with a bamboo ceiling and rough rafters, old locally made 'Dutch' furniture, a door into Retief's kitchen.
'Come with and I'll show you your rooms' he said in typical abbreviated South African fashion. We had almost identical twin bedded rooms, again high ceilings and stone walls, warm wooden furniture, sophisticated curtains and padded head boards and a small vase of garden cut flowers....perfect!
We showered and changed and rushed to meet Trevor and Joan Teeton (Joan and I were childhood friends) who had arranged dinner for us in the Zamani restaurant in Calitzdorp. It was lovely to see them again after nearly 10 years (yes we had all aged!) and we had a nice home cooked dinner in a cosy combination of store and dining room. Good conversation with Joan but so sad to hear of the loss of a mutual school friend to cancer. Phillida, who had, with Jean and Sally, arranged such a fantastic buffet lunch for my Shongololo group (remember Frances?) at Jean's lovely home on the sea front in Boulders. We had coffeed together, the four of us, two years ago at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town...as Sally said to me on the phone this morning 'Well Maggie it's our age, we seem to be dropping like flies!' Nice thought!!
We all dropped into bed and asleep within seconds that night...we had planned an exciting day on Saturday, South African Heritage day.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Rough Day
Huge seas today as we plough our way towards South Africa. The ship is rolling, pitching and shuddering and quite a few passengers are feeling under the weather with colds, fevers and just plain sea sickness. So far, touch wood hard, I'm fine.
I have been thinking of Troy Davis in Georgia today. He has been incarcerated for 22 years and in spite of protestations of innocence will be executed at 7 pm tonight. I believe there is something cold blooded and savage about execution no matter whether it is by hanging or by lethal injection. A person's life is being snuffed out by another person...to me that is just as much a murder as that committed by a deranged killer.
I feel pride that Canada no longer has a death penalty...only then can we be sure that an innocent person is not killed by law.
Brenda has not been feeling 100% for a couple of days but I think may finally, after alot of sleeping (Gravol induced) today, have licked it. I hope we are all well for our visit to South Africa. Looking forward to greeting Jeannie but not to losing Brenda. Everyone wishes she could stay on for the whole voyage...with Evelyn Hannon who has been such a joy to spend time with. They will be flying to Toronto from Jo'burg together via Zurich.
Today is rather a blah day, lots of waves and white caps out at sea, lots of rocking around inside, rehearsal at 5 pm (I am now the prompt!) for our acting class and finally a drink at 6 pm in the lounge. George and I have been going to bed early after watching Alan Bennett films in our cabin. Great fun!
Tomorrow we have a "girls night out" with our extended family, Emma, Rachel, Gerry and Lilly, plus Brenda, Evelyn and me. We shall start off in our cabin with soft drinks and go on to supper in the garden dining room but have to disperse for the Logistical Pre-port in the Union. Also at 7 pm there will be a performance (dress rehearsal) of the African play I am prompting (yes Michael wants me there sitting at the side)! They will perform it in a township school on our first day. They will have to cope without me then! Meeting Ali and Geoff in the Table Bay Hotel before setting off for Calitzdorp where we shall be staying on a guest farm and meeting Joan and Trevor Teeton for dinner. Ali and Joan and I all went to school together!
2 more sleeps!
I have been thinking of Troy Davis in Georgia today. He has been incarcerated for 22 years and in spite of protestations of innocence will be executed at 7 pm tonight. I believe there is something cold blooded and savage about execution no matter whether it is by hanging or by lethal injection. A person's life is being snuffed out by another person...to me that is just as much a murder as that committed by a deranged killer.
I feel pride that Canada no longer has a death penalty...only then can we be sure that an innocent person is not killed by law.
Brenda has not been feeling 100% for a couple of days but I think may finally, after alot of sleeping (Gravol induced) today, have licked it. I hope we are all well for our visit to South Africa. Looking forward to greeting Jeannie but not to losing Brenda. Everyone wishes she could stay on for the whole voyage...with Evelyn Hannon who has been such a joy to spend time with. They will be flying to Toronto from Jo'burg together via Zurich.
Today is rather a blah day, lots of waves and white caps out at sea, lots of rocking around inside, rehearsal at 5 pm (I am now the prompt!) for our acting class and finally a drink at 6 pm in the lounge. George and I have been going to bed early after watching Alan Bennett films in our cabin. Great fun!
Tomorrow we have a "girls night out" with our extended family, Emma, Rachel, Gerry and Lilly, plus Brenda, Evelyn and me. We shall start off in our cabin with soft drinks and go on to supper in the garden dining room but have to disperse for the Logistical Pre-port in the Union. Also at 7 pm there will be a performance (dress rehearsal) of the African play I am prompting (yes Michael wants me there sitting at the side)! They will perform it in a township school on our first day. They will have to cope without me then! Meeting Ali and Geoff in the Table Bay Hotel before setting off for Calitzdorp where we shall be staying on a guest farm and meeting Joan and Trevor Teeton for dinner. Ali and Joan and I all went to school together!
2 more sleeps!
Monday, September 19, 2011
Silver Wedding Anniversary
18th September 2011
Silver Wedding
Twenty five years is quite a milestone isn’t it? I didn’t mind marking the occasion last night because for us it has been a turbulent but exciting journey.
George and I met first I think at an audition or rehearsal, not sure which, in 1979, at McMaster University for a play written by the university librarian, Walter Reedy. It was called Losers Keepers and was about the Celts…Walter himself was Welsh. I have to confess that I found the play confusing, it was a collection of strange and comic scenes. Fortunately I was cast as the Welsh mother in a mining family. The set was the interior of the small miner’s cottage: the front room…combined kitchen dining/living room. George was cast as my husband, my youngest daughter Fiona was asked to play our daughter….a foretaste of things to come! This turned out to be the most realistic and ‘normal’ scene in the play. I loved the entrance music…We’ll keep a welcome in the hillsides…”, whatever I sounded I felt Welsh as I walked on stage.
George and I didn’t get on particularly well, I thought he mugged too much and he thought I was a prima donna…something no one else has ever accused me of! What I considered practical questions which I asked our director, David Inman, George thought proved my prima-donna status! One had to do with the basic furniture for heaven’s sake…I believe his mind was already made up! Anyway he was engaged to someone else and preoccupied so apart from playing husband and wife on stage we had little interaction off it.
I met him again at an audition for ‘Hamlet’ when I was auditioning for the role of Gertrude. That play came to naught and we never heard why. There were at least three drama groups functioning at the University in those days and our paths crossed numerous times over the years. Both our marriages ended in divorce and we were cast together once again in Charlie’s Aunt at the Players Guild in Hamilton…I playing the ‘real’ Aunt. That was in 1984.
After rehearsals we would wander off to the nearest pub, sometimes with other cast members but often on our own. We had a few drinks and long conversations and then George would see me on to the Dundas bus. On one occasion having been asked to a work colleague’s wedding I asked George to accompany me not particularly wanting to go on my own. I had given up my car to save money so borrowed an old cloncker from a neighbour in the Co-op we shared in a huge old Dundas house . It was an automatic but one had to drive it as a standard which I had got down to a fine art. George was impressed with my success in making the car go at all and offered to lend me his Le Car whilst he was on summer holiday in Europe. I accepted gladly and had to remind myself how to drive a standard correctly which I had not done for many years. It was such a generous offer and enabled Fiona, her friend Katie and I to drive to Southampton (In Ontario) and have a lovely holiday ourselves beside Lake Huron.
George , my great friend Audrey Diemert and I had taken to going up to Toronto together to see plays and movies so we had become friends and enjoyed each other’s company. When he was returning from Europe Audrey and I had gone together to pick him up at the airport. On this occasion Audrey suggested that I should go alone and I protested…why should I? I asked….’Because I think he would like that’ she replied. I was taken aback having noticed no preference on his part for my company. Besides I hated that drive to the airport, it was confusing and very fast and I needed her company. No said my most amenable friend, I had never known her so uncooperative. So I picked George up on my own and he seemed fairly happy to see me.
One night George called me at home where I was snuggled up with Fiona watching TV. ‘Would you like to come to the Dominican Republic with me?’ he asked. ‘Sounds lovely’ I replied ‘But there is no way I can afford it’, ‘Oh I’ll pay’ he said ‘I would enjoy your company’. I asked for time to think about it and conferred with Fiona, Audrey and my friend Liz Inman. Their combined opinion was that I should accept ‘But’ said Liz ‘Don’t hurt George!’ what? I thought…this is my friend telling me not to hurt a man! I was stunned. It was not my habit to do so and I still have trouble understanding the warning! However, Liz had known George for many more years than I had so I overlooked the remark.
We had an eventful holiday in the DR. First of all I lost my reading glasses on the beach and we could not find them in the sand….this meant that George started reading to me in the evenings which I loved. The second point of interest was that I was in 7th heaven being in the tropics again amidst swaying palms and sunny skies. George didn’t like our room and the constant and fairly strong breeze, in fact was disappointed with the place. I hadn’t had a holiday like this for some years and it was like a gift from the Gods…I was as happy as I could possibly be with everything! Last but definitely not least George became very ill with vomiting and diarrhoea…as did about 50% of the visitors at the resort. I was fine! There was a doctor on site fortunately so she visited George and put him on an antibiotic. He had somewhat recovered by or last day and we flew home.
George had been visiting Hvar in Yugoslavia for some years and was preparing to go again in the following summer. I decided to take out a loan from the bank and follow him there during my own much shorter holidays. I flew to Munich and then on to Split by train and from there took a beautiful ferry ride to Hvar. There as we drew nearer I spied a figure sitting near the harbour sitting on the rocks reading a book….George. I met his friends and loved the place and the ambience. We were married before the next summer when we both visited again. Shortly afterwards the war broke out and we have never been back….I think George still misses it.
George proposed to me on a camping trip to the Algonquin Park in Ontario. We had been camping overnight on an island with my little dog ‘Fiki. We awoke to rain and a strong wind but decided to try to make it back to the centre from which we had rented our canoe. It involved at least two portages and a few hours on the lake…it was rough and choppy and, between paddling hard, I held up one of G’s shirts to act as a sail and speed us along! Eventually, tired and wet, we decided to tie up the canoe and rest on a smooth, pancake shaped rock. We each had a swig of reviving brandy and George proposed. I had a splitting headache, was hungry and irritable and I couldn’t at first believe my ears. Then I thought that if he could ask me to marry him seeing me at my worst; no make up, possibly scowling, hair like a birds nest….then I should accept quickly before he changed his mind. So I did!
We were married on the 18th September 1986 in the Hamilton registry Office on James South. Only my daughters and a few good friends were present: Sheona, Tessa (our photographer) and Fiona, Audrey Diemert, Bob Johnston and Gerard Valee. We held our tiny reception lunch in the Winking Judge, a pub nearby. Not an auspicious start perhaps but here we are, still together 25 years later!
Silver Wedding
Twenty five years is quite a milestone isn’t it? I didn’t mind marking the occasion last night because for us it has been a turbulent but exciting journey.
George and I met first I think at an audition or rehearsal, not sure which, in 1979, at McMaster University for a play written by the university librarian, Walter Reedy. It was called Losers Keepers and was about the Celts…Walter himself was Welsh. I have to confess that I found the play confusing, it was a collection of strange and comic scenes. Fortunately I was cast as the Welsh mother in a mining family. The set was the interior of the small miner’s cottage: the front room…combined kitchen dining/living room. George was cast as my husband, my youngest daughter Fiona was asked to play our daughter….a foretaste of things to come! This turned out to be the most realistic and ‘normal’ scene in the play. I loved the entrance music…We’ll keep a welcome in the hillsides…”, whatever I sounded I felt Welsh as I walked on stage.
George and I didn’t get on particularly well, I thought he mugged too much and he thought I was a prima donna…something no one else has ever accused me of! What I considered practical questions which I asked our director, David Inman, George thought proved my prima-donna status! One had to do with the basic furniture for heaven’s sake…I believe his mind was already made up! Anyway he was engaged to someone else and preoccupied so apart from playing husband and wife on stage we had little interaction off it.
I met him again at an audition for ‘Hamlet’ when I was auditioning for the role of Gertrude. That play came to naught and we never heard why. There were at least three drama groups functioning at the University in those days and our paths crossed numerous times over the years. Both our marriages ended in divorce and we were cast together once again in Charlie’s Aunt at the Players Guild in Hamilton…I playing the ‘real’ Aunt. That was in 1984.
After rehearsals we would wander off to the nearest pub, sometimes with other cast members but often on our own. We had a few drinks and long conversations and then George would see me on to the Dundas bus. On one occasion having been asked to a work colleague’s wedding I asked George to accompany me not particularly wanting to go on my own. I had given up my car to save money so borrowed an old cloncker from a neighbour in the Co-op we shared in a huge old Dundas house . It was an automatic but one had to drive it as a standard which I had got down to a fine art. George was impressed with my success in making the car go at all and offered to lend me his Le Car whilst he was on summer holiday in Europe. I accepted gladly and had to remind myself how to drive a standard correctly which I had not done for many years. It was such a generous offer and enabled Fiona, her friend Katie and I to drive to Southampton (In Ontario) and have a lovely holiday ourselves beside Lake Huron.
George , my great friend Audrey Diemert and I had taken to going up to Toronto together to see plays and movies so we had become friends and enjoyed each other’s company. When he was returning from Europe Audrey and I had gone together to pick him up at the airport. On this occasion Audrey suggested that I should go alone and I protested…why should I? I asked….’Because I think he would like that’ she replied. I was taken aback having noticed no preference on his part for my company. Besides I hated that drive to the airport, it was confusing and very fast and I needed her company. No said my most amenable friend, I had never known her so uncooperative. So I picked George up on my own and he seemed fairly happy to see me.
One night George called me at home where I was snuggled up with Fiona watching TV. ‘Would you like to come to the Dominican Republic with me?’ he asked. ‘Sounds lovely’ I replied ‘But there is no way I can afford it’, ‘Oh I’ll pay’ he said ‘I would enjoy your company’. I asked for time to think about it and conferred with Fiona, Audrey and my friend Liz Inman. Their combined opinion was that I should accept ‘But’ said Liz ‘Don’t hurt George!’ what? I thought…this is my friend telling me not to hurt a man! I was stunned. It was not my habit to do so and I still have trouble understanding the warning! However, Liz had known George for many more years than I had so I overlooked the remark.
We had an eventful holiday in the DR. First of all I lost my reading glasses on the beach and we could not find them in the sand….this meant that George started reading to me in the evenings which I loved. The second point of interest was that I was in 7th heaven being in the tropics again amidst swaying palms and sunny skies. George didn’t like our room and the constant and fairly strong breeze, in fact was disappointed with the place. I hadn’t had a holiday like this for some years and it was like a gift from the Gods…I was as happy as I could possibly be with everything! Last but definitely not least George became very ill with vomiting and diarrhoea…as did about 50% of the visitors at the resort. I was fine! There was a doctor on site fortunately so she visited George and put him on an antibiotic. He had somewhat recovered by or last day and we flew home.
George had been visiting Hvar in Yugoslavia for some years and was preparing to go again in the following summer. I decided to take out a loan from the bank and follow him there during my own much shorter holidays. I flew to Munich and then on to Split by train and from there took a beautiful ferry ride to Hvar. There as we drew nearer I spied a figure sitting near the harbour sitting on the rocks reading a book….George. I met his friends and loved the place and the ambience. We were married before the next summer when we both visited again. Shortly afterwards the war broke out and we have never been back….I think George still misses it.
George proposed to me on a camping trip to the Algonquin Park in Ontario. We had been camping overnight on an island with my little dog ‘Fiki. We awoke to rain and a strong wind but decided to try to make it back to the centre from which we had rented our canoe. It involved at least two portages and a few hours on the lake…it was rough and choppy and, between paddling hard, I held up one of G’s shirts to act as a sail and speed us along! Eventually, tired and wet, we decided to tie up the canoe and rest on a smooth, pancake shaped rock. We each had a swig of reviving brandy and George proposed. I had a splitting headache, was hungry and irritable and I couldn’t at first believe my ears. Then I thought that if he could ask me to marry him seeing me at my worst; no make up, possibly scowling, hair like a birds nest….then I should accept quickly before he changed his mind. So I did!
We were married on the 18th September 1986 in the Hamilton registry Office on James South. Only my daughters and a few good friends were present: Sheona, Tessa (our photographer) and Fiona, Audrey Diemert, Bob Johnston and Gerard Valee. We held our tiny reception lunch in the Winking Judge, a pub nearby. Not an auspicious start perhaps but here we are, still together 25 years later!
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Sailing day...
Of course when we arrived at our lovely open air dining room, sharp at 6.30 am, there were no people, let alone breakfast. I made my way towards the kitchen and bumped into Abigail. She clapped her hand to her mouth and turned to run shouting "I will fetch them!' A few moments later she reappeared followed by the whole kitchen contingent and they cooked us the fastest meal ever....eggs and toast, apple juice and coffee. We departed from our beautiful haven soon afterwards heading now towards Akosombo for one night and then returning to the ship the following day.
We travelled on a remarkably smooth road. When I remarked on its good condition William said "This was the government before the last. they were trying so hard to improve things in Ghana. If you want to compare that regime with the last one, look at the parallel road which we took from Tema. Those potholes tell you at once about that government....they were terrible, corrupt through and through." An interesting analogy for the two differing presidents too, one conscientious and one corrupt. William approves of the present President but thinks he needs more 'courage' to clean up the corruption and malaise which has 'infected' the Ghanaian people.
It was on our way to Akosombo that we passed a horrendous bus accident which had taken place a few hours before. The fronts of each bus were destroyed and burnt going back about a third....seats crumpled and blackened. I remarked to Brenda that there must have been loss of life. She picked up a newspaper the next day in which the head line read '22 people killed in bus crash on Kumasi to Accra road'. The driving in Ghana as I mentioned before is chaotic and insane. How there are not many more accidents I cannot tell but what we witnessed filled me with amazement and fear.
We had a very, very early 'lunch' of coffee, snack and washroom break at 10.30 am...the same restaurant we had patronised and waited so long in on our way north. They remembered us and moved minimally more swiftly!
We arrived at the Akosombo Dam in the late afternoon and were shown around by a young man, Fred, who was a Legon university engineering student working his holiday there. We were driven right above the dam, looking down on 6 huge pipes, 6 enormous water gates and the 'embankment' dam. My eventual photos will illustrate this better. Suffice to say that this was our most impressive sight in Ghana. It supplies electricity to 99% of the Ghanaian people, to Togo and Benbin and Bukina Faso and the Cote d'Ivoire, also a small part of Northern Nigeria. Certainly there has been a huge amount of aid from Canada in the form of experts and engineers and the fact that we were Canadian thrilled Fred to bits. I was interested to see on the top of a hill opposie the dam the house which Kwame Nkrumah built for himself...what a view he had of the dam, built partly during his regime.
We spent the night right on the river in a rather pretty little hotel. We sat that night on our balcony, drinking wine and eating supper, and feeling so fortunate to have experienced Ghana as we had. In the morning (after sharing a Queen sized bed...they had no 'twins') we drank our tea and coffee on a gazebo built out into the river right opposite our cottage. We set off for Tema after breakfast at about 8 am.
We arrived back in Tema shortly before noon and bade fond farewell and gave many, many thanks to William for being such a wondeful mentor and guide for Ghana. We realised when we heard other adventures how extraordinarily lucky we had been.
We both heaved a sigh of contentment as we sailed through our on-board security check and walked into our 'home'....welcoming and cool! The gangway was level with the quay on the second deck making our boarding smooth and easy.
It was good to flop down in our cabin, throw all the dirty clothes into the laundry and finally be horizontal on the bed! And it was good to see George again.
Today, on our 25th wedding anniversary I give silent thanks that 47 years after I lived in Ghana I have been able to return, seen new parts and loved every minute.
We travelled on a remarkably smooth road. When I remarked on its good condition William said "This was the government before the last. they were trying so hard to improve things in Ghana. If you want to compare that regime with the last one, look at the parallel road which we took from Tema. Those potholes tell you at once about that government....they were terrible, corrupt through and through." An interesting analogy for the two differing presidents too, one conscientious and one corrupt. William approves of the present President but thinks he needs more 'courage' to clean up the corruption and malaise which has 'infected' the Ghanaian people.
It was on our way to Akosombo that we passed a horrendous bus accident which had taken place a few hours before. The fronts of each bus were destroyed and burnt going back about a third....seats crumpled and blackened. I remarked to Brenda that there must have been loss of life. She picked up a newspaper the next day in which the head line read '22 people killed in bus crash on Kumasi to Accra road'. The driving in Ghana as I mentioned before is chaotic and insane. How there are not many more accidents I cannot tell but what we witnessed filled me with amazement and fear.
We had a very, very early 'lunch' of coffee, snack and washroom break at 10.30 am...the same restaurant we had patronised and waited so long in on our way north. They remembered us and moved minimally more swiftly!
We arrived at the Akosombo Dam in the late afternoon and were shown around by a young man, Fred, who was a Legon university engineering student working his holiday there. We were driven right above the dam, looking down on 6 huge pipes, 6 enormous water gates and the 'embankment' dam. My eventual photos will illustrate this better. Suffice to say that this was our most impressive sight in Ghana. It supplies electricity to 99% of the Ghanaian people, to Togo and Benbin and Bukina Faso and the Cote d'Ivoire, also a small part of Northern Nigeria. Certainly there has been a huge amount of aid from Canada in the form of experts and engineers and the fact that we were Canadian thrilled Fred to bits. I was interested to see on the top of a hill opposie the dam the house which Kwame Nkrumah built for himself...what a view he had of the dam, built partly during his regime.
We spent the night right on the river in a rather pretty little hotel. We sat that night on our balcony, drinking wine and eating supper, and feeling so fortunate to have experienced Ghana as we had. In the morning (after sharing a Queen sized bed...they had no 'twins') we drank our tea and coffee on a gazebo built out into the river right opposite our cottage. We set off for Tema after breakfast at about 8 am.
We arrived back in Tema shortly before noon and bade fond farewell and gave many, many thanks to William for being such a wondeful mentor and guide for Ghana. We realised when we heard other adventures how extraordinarily lucky we had been.
We both heaved a sigh of contentment as we sailed through our on-board security check and walked into our 'home'....welcoming and cool! The gangway was level with the quay on the second deck making our boarding smooth and easy.
It was good to flop down in our cabin, throw all the dirty clothes into the laundry and finally be horizontal on the bed! And it was good to see George again.
Today, on our 25th wedding anniversary I give silent thanks that 47 years after I lived in Ghana I have been able to return, seen new parts and loved every minute.
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Goodbye Ghana....
We were indeed the only visitors to the Lake Bosomtwe Paradise resort. It was lovely to walk around this beautiful place and have it all to ourselves except for the very laid back staff. I say laid back because they had time to play table tennis and drafts off the dining room area. They chatted and laughed , watched the TV which was behind their service counter and in a rather languid manner brought us breakfast and supper. They were wonderfully friendly and we exchanged email addresses before we left. I asked Abigail, the young woman serving meals to us 'Would you like to travel?' and she responded 'It is my dream!' It was also William's dream and the Legon university student's who showed us around the Akosombo Dam. He was more specific: because many of the expatriots who are working on the dam site are Canadian, Fred's dream is to come to Canada and study engineering.
We spent our first morning relaxing. It was great to take our time and have no deadlines....not until 1 pm anyway when we were to meet William at the car. We would go to lunch at noon and have plenty of time. We read our books on the balcony, looking out at heavy dark skies which threatened to drown our afternoon in Kumasi, and our visit to the bead market.
We turned up a little late for lunch so ordered a Ghanaian dish of Red-red (spicy beans and onion), fried plantains and chips...easy and quick we thought. It came after about 40 minutes. William shook his head in disgust and wandered outside to wait for us. He was fortunately very forgiving and always blamed the Ghanaian side of the equation. We set off for Kumasi...the big city.
Brenda had some requests: beads for her daughter and a Ghanaian football jersey for her son. So we first searched for the soccer jersey and eventually found one the right colour and size. It started to rain! Brenda kindly offered to share her umbrella but I decided to soak up and enjoy the moisture. We continued our searches whilst drops of water and sweat drenched my hair and face...what a sight (I should say 'fright') I was!
After also finding a bottle of wine we headed off to the bead market which only operates on a Thursday so we were in luck. What a colourful sight it was: tables loaded with all shapes, sizes and colours of beads. A feast for the eyes. We wandered slowly round and made our individual choices. There were Brits there and it was good to hear their accents! It struck me that, unusually, we had not met one person or group from Semester at Sea...and we never did until the shuttle bus back to the ship in Tema.
Our next stop was the Coti waterfalls. This was about an hour's drive away and William casually informed us that there were 125 steps down to the Falls and of course....back up again. I inwardly groaned...it was hot and humid and I felt that my asthma was not far off. In the event I managed the steps easily down and slowly up. William and Brenda were kind and patient so all was well.
The twin falls were absolutely stunning falling sharply down about 400 ft with a smokey mist rising over the swirling pool below. There was a small beach with whispy trees and a welcome coolness in the shade. We stood riveted, it was such a soothing therapeutic sight and we were reluctant to leave.... I was naturally postponing the inevitable climb back to the car!
Climb back we did and returned to Bosomtwe, stopping only to take photos of some incredible views over 'our' lake! We had a supper of boiled yams and Palava sauce....delicious! The sauce contained spinach, tomatoes, beans, onions and spices: the boiled yams were like white round slices of a very crumbly bread....strange but a perfect accompaniment for the sauce.
We went to bed at about 9 pm that night tired and relaxed....after a glass or two of wine! We left instructions for our 6.30 am breakfast as we were to make the 250km journey to Akosombo for our last night.
I really will finish this tomorrow! George is sound asleep and my lids are heavy. The computer lab is going to take a look at my connection to my pictures tomorrow and see why I cannot get them to the blogsite. I truly hope to be able to add some soon.
For now Kwaheri, sleep well!
We spent our first morning relaxing. It was great to take our time and have no deadlines....not until 1 pm anyway when we were to meet William at the car. We would go to lunch at noon and have plenty of time. We read our books on the balcony, looking out at heavy dark skies which threatened to drown our afternoon in Kumasi, and our visit to the bead market.
We turned up a little late for lunch so ordered a Ghanaian dish of Red-red (spicy beans and onion), fried plantains and chips...easy and quick we thought. It came after about 40 minutes. William shook his head in disgust and wandered outside to wait for us. He was fortunately very forgiving and always blamed the Ghanaian side of the equation. We set off for Kumasi...the big city.
Brenda had some requests: beads for her daughter and a Ghanaian football jersey for her son. So we first searched for the soccer jersey and eventually found one the right colour and size. It started to rain! Brenda kindly offered to share her umbrella but I decided to soak up and enjoy the moisture. We continued our searches whilst drops of water and sweat drenched my hair and face...what a sight (I should say 'fright') I was!
After also finding a bottle of wine we headed off to the bead market which only operates on a Thursday so we were in luck. What a colourful sight it was: tables loaded with all shapes, sizes and colours of beads. A feast for the eyes. We wandered slowly round and made our individual choices. There were Brits there and it was good to hear their accents! It struck me that, unusually, we had not met one person or group from Semester at Sea...and we never did until the shuttle bus back to the ship in Tema.
Our next stop was the Coti waterfalls. This was about an hour's drive away and William casually informed us that there were 125 steps down to the Falls and of course....back up again. I inwardly groaned...it was hot and humid and I felt that my asthma was not far off. In the event I managed the steps easily down and slowly up. William and Brenda were kind and patient so all was well.
The twin falls were absolutely stunning falling sharply down about 400 ft with a smokey mist rising over the swirling pool below. There was a small beach with whispy trees and a welcome coolness in the shade. We stood riveted, it was such a soothing therapeutic sight and we were reluctant to leave.... I was naturally postponing the inevitable climb back to the car!
Climb back we did and returned to Bosomtwe, stopping only to take photos of some incredible views over 'our' lake! We had a supper of boiled yams and Palava sauce....delicious! The sauce contained spinach, tomatoes, beans, onions and spices: the boiled yams were like white round slices of a very crumbly bread....strange but a perfect accompaniment for the sauce.
We went to bed at about 9 pm that night tired and relaxed....after a glass or two of wine! We left instructions for our 6.30 am breakfast as we were to make the 250km journey to Akosombo for our last night.
I really will finish this tomorrow! George is sound asleep and my lids are heavy. The computer lab is going to take a look at my connection to my pictures tomorrow and see why I cannot get them to the blogsite. I truly hope to be able to add some soon.
For now Kwaheri, sleep well!
More Ghana...
The storm continued unabated....fork and sheet lightening, the odd deafening clap of thunder, and the rain...what magnificent tropical rain, I LOVED it! William seemed unfazed as we bumped over non paved rocky roads in an almost solid blackness. 'Everybody goes inside and they turn off all their lights' William said and he was right, not a soul was to be seen anywhere and there were no comforting lighted windows. I couldn't believe I had remarked to George in the morning 'I wonder why we need a four wheel drive?' Had I totally forgotten West African roads.
Aside: I drove all over Nigeria with John in an ordinary Vauxhall over some pretty shoddy trails and unpaved roads. Driven always during working hours by a company driver, Johnson. He was perhaps my greatest friend in Nigeria because we spent many happy hours together talking, talking....waiting for John to conclude business in some out of the way agency or simply food shopping in the market. More important he was a superb driver and I shall not forget the first time he told me to 'Belt up Madam, this is a rotten road!' I should add that he was the most gentle and respectful of men. I remember him especially when I plunged into the crowded Onitsha market (the biggest in Africa?) where he had warned me white women did not often go. He was always one step behind me, or in front if he perceived any sort of threat be it an aggressive seller or someone asking me a ridiculous price. Oh Johnson where are you now?
Another Aside: We have just crossed the Equator! The captain warned us of the bump and the visibility of that significant line if we looked overboard down upon the water?! It was exactly 15.05 pm Saturday 17th Sept..both Brendas and many others were dunked in the pool this morning. Father Neptune watched over all the procedures, green from head to foot..alias Captain Jeremy Kingston. There was a head shaving ceremony...don't worry Frank, Brenda's hair is still all there!
We finally arrived at the Lake Bosomtwe Paradise Resort. We were greeted warmly and our bags taken to our room.
'By the way' I said immediately to the manager 'we are very, very hungry, where may we have supper?'
'Oh Madam' was the reply 'the kitchen has closed.'!
William jumped in
"it is not yet 9 o'clock, they should not have closed'
'But there was no one here' said Samuel, the manager.
'You were expecting us?' asked William,
'That is true' said Samuel....long pause and...stalemate.
'What can you give us?' I asked 'do you have chips?'
'Ah you would like chips?' Samuel's face brightens 'And chicken?'
'Fantastic!' say Brenda and I in one voice.
'And wine?' asks my on-the-ball friend
'$35.00' says Samuel
'Wha...?' I start...
'We'll have it!' says Brenda. I told you she was great to travel with!
So we eat our first dinner ashore in our lovely big room with the fan and air conditioner belting away....aaaah, cool, wonderful....pouf! The whole lot go off, there is a dark, deafening silence. We sit there stunned, blinking into the silent darkness and I think again
'Africa bloody Africa!'
About ten minutes later the power returned and we were able to see what we were devouring....both of us used lots of ketchup! We were enjoying ourselves....we had running water, hot and cold, comfortable firm beds and we were cooling down again.
We fell into bed after supper and slept soundly until day break. We awoke almost simultaneously and drew back the curtains. There in front of us was Lake Bosomtwe, surrounded by forest covered hills. Immediately below our balcony were manicured lawns and palm trees. There were two or three fishermen out on the lake. They sat on boards of wood looking for all the world as if they were wading. They appeared to be setting up their underwater nets. We could hear bird song and there were a multitude of tiny birds, crows, kingfishers and wagtails. I later spotted vultures and we saw a few hawks. Everywhere were gekos and larger coloured lizards. Hibiscus bushes bloomed, beauganvillia, morning glory and lots of varied bushes with multi coloured and patterned leaves. I felt a cloak of pure happiness descend on me...I was back in Africa, even the air felt familiar!
More later....I'll try to finish this tonight.
Aside: I drove all over Nigeria with John in an ordinary Vauxhall over some pretty shoddy trails and unpaved roads. Driven always during working hours by a company driver, Johnson. He was perhaps my greatest friend in Nigeria because we spent many happy hours together talking, talking....waiting for John to conclude business in some out of the way agency or simply food shopping in the market. More important he was a superb driver and I shall not forget the first time he told me to 'Belt up Madam, this is a rotten road!' I should add that he was the most gentle and respectful of men. I remember him especially when I plunged into the crowded Onitsha market (the biggest in Africa?) where he had warned me white women did not often go. He was always one step behind me, or in front if he perceived any sort of threat be it an aggressive seller or someone asking me a ridiculous price. Oh Johnson where are you now?
Another Aside: We have just crossed the Equator! The captain warned us of the bump and the visibility of that significant line if we looked overboard down upon the water?! It was exactly 15.05 pm Saturday 17th Sept..both Brendas and many others were dunked in the pool this morning. Father Neptune watched over all the procedures, green from head to foot..alias Captain Jeremy Kingston. There was a head shaving ceremony...don't worry Frank, Brenda's hair is still all there!
We finally arrived at the Lake Bosomtwe Paradise Resort. We were greeted warmly and our bags taken to our room.
'By the way' I said immediately to the manager 'we are very, very hungry, where may we have supper?'
'Oh Madam' was the reply 'the kitchen has closed.'!
William jumped in
"it is not yet 9 o'clock, they should not have closed'
'But there was no one here' said Samuel, the manager.
'You were expecting us?' asked William,
'That is true' said Samuel....long pause and...stalemate.
'What can you give us?' I asked 'do you have chips?'
'Ah you would like chips?' Samuel's face brightens 'And chicken?'
'Fantastic!' say Brenda and I in one voice.
'And wine?' asks my on-the-ball friend
'$35.00' says Samuel
'Wha...?' I start...
'We'll have it!' says Brenda. I told you she was great to travel with!
So we eat our first dinner ashore in our lovely big room with the fan and air conditioner belting away....aaaah, cool, wonderful....pouf! The whole lot go off, there is a dark, deafening silence. We sit there stunned, blinking into the silent darkness and I think again
'Africa bloody Africa!'
About ten minutes later the power returned and we were able to see what we were devouring....both of us used lots of ketchup! We were enjoying ourselves....we had running water, hot and cold, comfortable firm beds and we were cooling down again.
We fell into bed after supper and slept soundly until day break. We awoke almost simultaneously and drew back the curtains. There in front of us was Lake Bosomtwe, surrounded by forest covered hills. Immediately below our balcony were manicured lawns and palm trees. There were two or three fishermen out on the lake. They sat on boards of wood looking for all the world as if they were wading. They appeared to be setting up their underwater nets. We could hear bird song and there were a multitude of tiny birds, crows, kingfishers and wagtails. I later spotted vultures and we saw a few hawks. Everywhere were gekos and larger coloured lizards. Hibiscus bushes bloomed, beauganvillia, morning glory and lots of varied bushes with multi coloured and patterned leaves. I felt a cloak of pure happiness descend on me...I was back in Africa, even the air felt familiar!
More later....I'll try to finish this tonight.
Ghana
September 17th
Well it's over...we've been and seen and been conquered! Ghana is a state of mind, one experiences it rather than visits. It is a mixture of delights: grinning faces, friendly voices, hands grabbing yours to shake and welcome you, laughter, greetings being shouted across the crowded places "WELKOM! please buy my things, here I show you more, MADAM! don't walk away....stay!' then they run after you. For some of the women (more particularly I think) on board this was all too much and they were relieved to sail away last night. One person (Brenda 1) barely left the ship and when she went shopping with Amy found it all overwhelming...so stayed aboard after that. Sad I thought.
As I wrote in my last blog I had concerns about paying for our tour via Ghanaian ATM machines. This turned out to be a justified concern. I read on our Green sheet (which we are given in each port, containing valuable info. re emergency phone numbers, money, tips etc etc) and I saw that only 2 banks would take Mastercard: The Ghana Commercial Bank and the Stanbic. However, having withdrawn money all over the world with my McMaster Credit Union debit card I thought hopefully that I would be OK.
To start at the beginning there was no sign of our car or William when we descended the gangway at about 10. 30AM. The quay side was already swarming with activity: SAS tour buses, stalls with colourful fabrics. drums, carvings and clothes had quickly set up right opposite the ship. There were drivers, dockworkers, tour guides and general hubbub.
We wandered for a time waiting and then decided to take the shuttle bus to the gate of the port. George came with us carrying my back pack (which was nice) and we were driven (past what I would have considered the entrance) to a large gas station with taxis waiting and which had been designated as the gathering point. Still no sign of William (Africa bloody Africa I muttered to myself...our dirge from bygone days in West Africa!) At last a very nice, very large Ghanaian man who seemed to be the taxi coordinator let me use his cell phone and I contacted Mimi who contacted William. A few minutes later he arrived with our very nice, solid looking 4x4 a/c car. We bade George a fond farewell and climbed (it was one believe me!) aboard.
I guess we should go to a bank first William I said. No problem he replied. An hour later having tried umpteen ATMs I could not get a penny...what a horrible word 'Declined' is! Brenda was successful but not I! However we had still not found the two Mastercard-taking banks. Eventually I decided Tema was a traffic nightmare and we were wasting time under hot skies in very high humidity. So I suggested we wait until Kumasi or a quieter place at least. William agreed with some relief and we went on our way.
It takes quite a time to leave behind the heavy traffic, and at times terrifying driving that goes with it. We didn't leave the port environs really for a couple of hours.
The countryside opened up eventually and we picked up some speed. William turned out to be a good conversationalist and guide during the next few days and we had a great feeling of security being looked after by him. He stopped for us to get lunch and our breath about 1 o'clock. It was a bright blue rondavel open all round. There were dining tables and white and black clad waiters. We ordered an easy meal ..soup and bread. William had given us an hour to relax. Almost an hour later we were still waiting. I approached a table where there were three unoccupied waitresses, one clerk sitting writing out bills and a manageress.
Good afternoon I said pleasantly how are you? They looked concerned ...why was I there? I explained the situation including our imminent departure time and the (canned with uncooked veg!) soup appeared within minutes with huge apologies. I believe they had never received the order... or had been madly chopping and boiling carrots and potatoes to create the stroganoff soup it was supposed to be.
We left a little late and took an indirect road (not the official one) towards Kumasi. It was in very poor shape, filled with huge pot holes and numerous speed bumps. William seemed to anticipate each well in advance and I suspect he has driven it many. many times.
Lake Bosomtwe is at the end of a long turn off on the Kumasi road, well before the city. There were forested mountains of wierd shapes and sizes on both sides, a further deterioration in the road surface and we passed through small villages rather than towns. It was quite spectacular, a beautiful area of Ghana I had never imagined, living in Accra and only driving along the coast.
The skies were darkening and rain seemed ineveitable. We hoped we could beat it to Lake Bosomtwe. However it was not to be.
More later!
Well it's over...we've been and seen and been conquered! Ghana is a state of mind, one experiences it rather than visits. It is a mixture of delights: grinning faces, friendly voices, hands grabbing yours to shake and welcome you, laughter, greetings being shouted across the crowded places "WELKOM! please buy my things, here I show you more, MADAM! don't walk away....stay!' then they run after you. For some of the women (more particularly I think) on board this was all too much and they were relieved to sail away last night. One person (Brenda 1) barely left the ship and when she went shopping with Amy found it all overwhelming...so stayed aboard after that. Sad I thought.
As I wrote in my last blog I had concerns about paying for our tour via Ghanaian ATM machines. This turned out to be a justified concern. I read on our Green sheet (which we are given in each port, containing valuable info. re emergency phone numbers, money, tips etc etc) and I saw that only 2 banks would take Mastercard: The Ghana Commercial Bank and the Stanbic. However, having withdrawn money all over the world with my McMaster Credit Union debit card I thought hopefully that I would be OK.
To start at the beginning there was no sign of our car or William when we descended the gangway at about 10. 30AM. The quay side was already swarming with activity: SAS tour buses, stalls with colourful fabrics. drums, carvings and clothes had quickly set up right opposite the ship. There were drivers, dockworkers, tour guides and general hubbub.
We wandered for a time waiting and then decided to take the shuttle bus to the gate of the port. George came with us carrying my back pack (which was nice) and we were driven (past what I would have considered the entrance) to a large gas station with taxis waiting and which had been designated as the gathering point. Still no sign of William (Africa bloody Africa I muttered to myself...our dirge from bygone days in West Africa!) At last a very nice, very large Ghanaian man who seemed to be the taxi coordinator let me use his cell phone and I contacted Mimi who contacted William. A few minutes later he arrived with our very nice, solid looking 4x4 a/c car. We bade George a fond farewell and climbed (it was one believe me!) aboard.
I guess we should go to a bank first William I said. No problem he replied. An hour later having tried umpteen ATMs I could not get a penny...what a horrible word 'Declined' is! Brenda was successful but not I! However we had still not found the two Mastercard-taking banks. Eventually I decided Tema was a traffic nightmare and we were wasting time under hot skies in very high humidity. So I suggested we wait until Kumasi or a quieter place at least. William agreed with some relief and we went on our way.
It takes quite a time to leave behind the heavy traffic, and at times terrifying driving that goes with it. We didn't leave the port environs really for a couple of hours.
The countryside opened up eventually and we picked up some speed. William turned out to be a good conversationalist and guide during the next few days and we had a great feeling of security being looked after by him. He stopped for us to get lunch and our breath about 1 o'clock. It was a bright blue rondavel open all round. There were dining tables and white and black clad waiters. We ordered an easy meal ..soup and bread. William had given us an hour to relax. Almost an hour later we were still waiting. I approached a table where there were three unoccupied waitresses, one clerk sitting writing out bills and a manageress.
Good afternoon I said pleasantly how are you? They looked concerned ...why was I there? I explained the situation including our imminent departure time and the (canned with uncooked veg!) soup appeared within minutes with huge apologies. I believe they had never received the order... or had been madly chopping and boiling carrots and potatoes to create the stroganoff soup it was supposed to be.
We left a little late and took an indirect road (not the official one) towards Kumasi. It was in very poor shape, filled with huge pot holes and numerous speed bumps. William seemed to anticipate each well in advance and I suspect he has driven it many. many times.
Lake Bosomtwe is at the end of a long turn off on the Kumasi road, well before the city. There were forested mountains of wierd shapes and sizes on both sides, a further deterioration in the road surface and we passed through small villages rather than towns. It was quite spectacular, a beautiful area of Ghana I had never imagined, living in Accra and only driving along the coast.
The skies were darkening and rain seemed ineveitable. We hoped we could beat it to Lake Bosomtwe. However it was not to be.
More later!
Monday, September 12, 2011
Strange Day...
12th September
It was grey this morning, the beginning of rains in Ghana and it was reflected here at sea. I was almost awake very early worrying about how we were going to pay for our Ghanaian trip. What if no ATM will accept my card? What if the car breaks down? What if we're not back in time? You know how lying half asleep can intensify our concerns? So I got up, took a shower and made tea with my $3.00 Value Village coffee percolator. Actually I had woken George at 1.35 am telling him it was 5 past 7 and he was pretty forgiving....I love luminous clocks and watches but they are deceptive..this was the least I could do.
George had a class at 8 am, was speaking in Global Studies this morning on Pidgins and Creoles and then had another class at 10.45. He left his first class early because he was sweating and feeling dizzy. I was worried and wondered if he should cancel Global studies but, trooper that he is, he went and delivered a great lecture and then went on to teach his second class. I had been sitting at the back in GS in case he collapsed!
We have been planning our Silver Wedding celebration on the 18th September which we are sharing with Alfred and Terry Hunt because Alfred has his 70th birthday on the same day. So far we have 16 guests I believe and 3 tables. The guests have to pay $ 40.00 each (ex SAS-ers will realise the price has increased by $15.00!) so we are grateful for their presences. We shall do the wine and SAS provide the champagne...so that's not a bad deal. It will be strange to celebrate this miraculous (!) day without family and friends so we are fortunate indeed to have met people on board this year with whom we have 'clicked' so beautifully
George has fallen asleep. It's only three and a half days away but I shall miss him terribly. Isn't life strange? Love creeps up...
Kwaheri. See you in a few days. Ghana here we come!
It was grey this morning, the beginning of rains in Ghana and it was reflected here at sea. I was almost awake very early worrying about how we were going to pay for our Ghanaian trip. What if no ATM will accept my card? What if the car breaks down? What if we're not back in time? You know how lying half asleep can intensify our concerns? So I got up, took a shower and made tea with my $3.00 Value Village coffee percolator. Actually I had woken George at 1.35 am telling him it was 5 past 7 and he was pretty forgiving....I love luminous clocks and watches but they are deceptive..this was the least I could do.
George had a class at 8 am, was speaking in Global Studies this morning on Pidgins and Creoles and then had another class at 10.45. He left his first class early because he was sweating and feeling dizzy. I was worried and wondered if he should cancel Global studies but, trooper that he is, he went and delivered a great lecture and then went on to teach his second class. I had been sitting at the back in GS in case he collapsed!
We have been planning our Silver Wedding celebration on the 18th September which we are sharing with Alfred and Terry Hunt because Alfred has his 70th birthday on the same day. So far we have 16 guests I believe and 3 tables. The guests have to pay $ 40.00 each (ex SAS-ers will realise the price has increased by $15.00!) so we are grateful for their presences. We shall do the wine and SAS provide the champagne...so that's not a bad deal. It will be strange to celebrate this miraculous (!) day without family and friends so we are fortunate indeed to have met people on board this year with whom we have 'clicked' so beautifully
George has fallen asleep. It's only three and a half days away but I shall miss him terribly. Isn't life strange? Love creeps up...
Kwaheri. See you in a few days. Ghana here we come!
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Sea Musings
One of the most off-the-mark comments to George and me when we return home is: "How was the cruise?" Why? you ask. Well this voyage is the furthest thing from a 'cruise' that you can imagine. Let me first define cruise as I see it.
1) A cruise is usually 2-3 weeks long at most and purely for pleasure and relaxation.
2) The food attempts to be gourmet and is usually spactacularly presented.
3) Meals are menued and 'served'
4) There are many lounges, reading rooms, bars and dining rooms, often an orchestra and entertainment.
5) Passengers are tourists and cruise lovers, there are no students on board to learn.
6) There is no faculty on board to teach
7) There are no classrooms
8) There is no Students Union
9) There is a grandiose spa and hairdressing salon
10) There is a comprehensive and spacious excersise room.
We on Semester at Sea have a somewhat different agenda.
1) The sea voyage lasts three and a half months and is primarily educational.
2) The food is wholesome but not gourmet and is self-served from a buffet cafeteria style.
3) Stewards assist but do not serve us. ie They often offer to bring coffee or dessert but do not serve us each course. They are rarely pompous and always cheerful! They address us all by our first names.
4) We have classrooms, an academic library with a tiny section for book swops.
5) We have one lounge solely for the use of faculty, family/hangers-on like me, life-long-learners and staff. Students do not have access on a normal day to day basis.
6) We have a piano bar frequented mostly by students with their computers working during the day and partying at night! You can get a great latte or espresso there.
7) We have a pool deck with a (minute by anyone's standards) pool, soft drink, snack and hamburger bar.
8) Passengers are for the most part students (400-600) with a faculty of about 35,
30 staff, on this voyage there are nearly 70 life long learners, faculty and staff dependents take their numbers up to around 100. Counting the crew and housekeeping staff the total number of people on board touches about 1000. Fewer on this voyage as we have only 450 students.
9) Because the whole focus of the voyage is educational our SAS excusions ashore often skip the shopping component.
10) We have a relatively small Wellness Spa including a hair dressing salon, sauna and exercise room....very crowded with fewer machines.
11) We have a Students Union which doubles as a large classroom. Everyone is required to attend Global Study lectures there, Logistical and Diplomatic pre-port briefings. It is used for theatrical performances and classes.
12) We stop in a number of ports for about 5-6 days as opposed to the one or two on popular cruises.
13) The students (and others) attend lectures for which they receive their university credits. This is a true floating university.
I wanted to explain Semester at Sea because the faculty and students work so hard and the latter receive credits just as they would during a land based semester.
Perhaps I have taken the word 'cruise' out of your greeting to us and replaced it with voyage, journey or even semester. That would make us very happy indeed!
1) A cruise is usually 2-3 weeks long at most and purely for pleasure and relaxation.
2) The food attempts to be gourmet and is usually spactacularly presented.
3) Meals are menued and 'served'
4) There are many lounges, reading rooms, bars and dining rooms, often an orchestra and entertainment.
5) Passengers are tourists and cruise lovers, there are no students on board to learn.
6) There is no faculty on board to teach
7) There are no classrooms
8) There is no Students Union
9) There is a grandiose spa and hairdressing salon
10) There is a comprehensive and spacious excersise room.
We on Semester at Sea have a somewhat different agenda.
1) The sea voyage lasts three and a half months and is primarily educational.
2) The food is wholesome but not gourmet and is self-served from a buffet cafeteria style.
3) Stewards assist but do not serve us. ie They often offer to bring coffee or dessert but do not serve us each course. They are rarely pompous and always cheerful! They address us all by our first names.
4) We have classrooms, an academic library with a tiny section for book swops.
5) We have one lounge solely for the use of faculty, family/hangers-on like me, life-long-learners and staff. Students do not have access on a normal day to day basis.
6) We have a piano bar frequented mostly by students with their computers working during the day and partying at night! You can get a great latte or espresso there.
7) We have a pool deck with a (minute by anyone's standards) pool, soft drink, snack and hamburger bar.
8) Passengers are for the most part students (400-600) with a faculty of about 35,
30 staff, on this voyage there are nearly 70 life long learners, faculty and staff dependents take their numbers up to around 100. Counting the crew and housekeeping staff the total number of people on board touches about 1000. Fewer on this voyage as we have only 450 students.
9) Because the whole focus of the voyage is educational our SAS excusions ashore often skip the shopping component.
10) We have a relatively small Wellness Spa including a hair dressing salon, sauna and exercise room....very crowded with fewer machines.
11) We have a Students Union which doubles as a large classroom. Everyone is required to attend Global Study lectures there, Logistical and Diplomatic pre-port briefings. It is used for theatrical performances and classes.
12) We stop in a number of ports for about 5-6 days as opposed to the one or two on popular cruises.
13) The students (and others) attend lectures for which they receive their university credits. This is a true floating university.
I wanted to explain Semester at Sea because the faculty and students work so hard and the latter receive credits just as they would during a land based semester.
Perhaps I have taken the word 'cruise' out of your greeting to us and replaced it with voyage, journey or even semester. That would make us very happy indeed!
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Las Palmas
We have been bunkering today in Las Palmas. We are on the Port side of the ship and faced the white houses and church of the old town, cars running busily along the harbour and shore road. Strange to watch life continuing busily before you and being unable to join in!
Memories: We, John, Sheona and I, called into this port on our way home (the UK) from Ghana: I think it was in winter because we bought Sheona a red woolen coat and her very first pair of shoes. She hated wearing any of these clothes as she was used to a pair of underpants and bare feet! We were on our final voyage from Ghana and Africa, sailing out of Takoradi. Sheona was only 15 months old. We ran into horrendous weather in the western approaches to Britain on that voyage I remember: gale force winds and huge seas and our ship the Elder Dempster Line 'Accra' seemed to be tossed around like a cork. This beautiful ship, so much larger and faster, seems alot safer!
After breakfast today Brenda (1) came up and sat on our deck with me but we were ultimately forced into the cabin because of high winds...we had wrapped ourselves up in two of my stoles because it was quite chilly...Don (steward) decided to wash down all the deck furniture which was covered with a thick yellow dust from Casablanca. Brenda (2) came up with George later for drinks after his class in which B. is a student...I felt very proper as I finished my mug of tea and watched them knocking back (my) Scotch!
We discussed some of the strange happenings which had taken place with students and Life long Learners in Morocco. We have a very few 'toxic' (that's the word being used) people on board who have caused great unhappiness to others in their travel groups. One wonders what is the attraction of coming on board a ship dedicated to academic teaching and learning, to behave as hostile 'know it alls', being excessively rude to everyone. We fortunately have been blessed with wonderful companions, 'travellers' who revel in the experience. We had only one 'complainer' on our tour and the main targets were our delightful guide, our hotel and Morocco itself...I wanted to say to her sweetly "Can I help you find a flight back to the good ole USA?!"
Afternoon: We have just sailed out of Las Palmas and are on a calm and steady course for Accra, Ghana. The sun is shining and there is again a cool, strong breeze which has forced George inside from his deck chair. He is busy working on various dialects and he has asked me to identify each...he does them well and it's great fun.
I'm off shortly to watch Michael's Acting 1 class. I get such pleasure from watching him inspire the students to do outrageous African movements and sounds they may never have heard or done before...they really get into the spirit of things and (if they commit to attending rehearsal) they should have a wonderful show.
Leter: Watched an incredible rehearsal again of the Acting group and have offered my services to the students to help them learn lines and have been asked to prompt later.
Lovely evening spent with the two Brendas, Evelyn, who told me funny, fascinating stories of visits to China, Alfred and Terry (LLL assistant co-ordinator), Steve and George. Intended to attend our next drumming session from Amy but we came to bed after drinks and chat in Steve and Brenda's cabin when the previous speaker in the Union went on for ages. It became too late for us all.
George sound asleep, calm seas, good book, off to bed. Kwaheri!
Memories: We, John, Sheona and I, called into this port on our way home (the UK) from Ghana: I think it was in winter because we bought Sheona a red woolen coat and her very first pair of shoes. She hated wearing any of these clothes as she was used to a pair of underpants and bare feet! We were on our final voyage from Ghana and Africa, sailing out of Takoradi. Sheona was only 15 months old. We ran into horrendous weather in the western approaches to Britain on that voyage I remember: gale force winds and huge seas and our ship the Elder Dempster Line 'Accra' seemed to be tossed around like a cork. This beautiful ship, so much larger and faster, seems alot safer!
After breakfast today Brenda (1) came up and sat on our deck with me but we were ultimately forced into the cabin because of high winds...we had wrapped ourselves up in two of my stoles because it was quite chilly...Don (steward) decided to wash down all the deck furniture which was covered with a thick yellow dust from Casablanca. Brenda (2) came up with George later for drinks after his class in which B. is a student...I felt very proper as I finished my mug of tea and watched them knocking back (my) Scotch!
We discussed some of the strange happenings which had taken place with students and Life long Learners in Morocco. We have a very few 'toxic' (that's the word being used) people on board who have caused great unhappiness to others in their travel groups. One wonders what is the attraction of coming on board a ship dedicated to academic teaching and learning, to behave as hostile 'know it alls', being excessively rude to everyone. We fortunately have been blessed with wonderful companions, 'travellers' who revel in the experience. We had only one 'complainer' on our tour and the main targets were our delightful guide, our hotel and Morocco itself...I wanted to say to her sweetly "Can I help you find a flight back to the good ole USA?!"
Afternoon: We have just sailed out of Las Palmas and are on a calm and steady course for Accra, Ghana. The sun is shining and there is again a cool, strong breeze which has forced George inside from his deck chair. He is busy working on various dialects and he has asked me to identify each...he does them well and it's great fun.
I'm off shortly to watch Michael's Acting 1 class. I get such pleasure from watching him inspire the students to do outrageous African movements and sounds they may never have heard or done before...they really get into the spirit of things and (if they commit to attending rehearsal) they should have a wonderful show.
Leter: Watched an incredible rehearsal again of the Acting group and have offered my services to the students to help them learn lines and have been asked to prompt later.
Lovely evening spent with the two Brendas, Evelyn, who told me funny, fascinating stories of visits to China, Alfred and Terry (LLL assistant co-ordinator), Steve and George. Intended to attend our next drumming session from Amy but we came to bed after drinks and chat in Steve and Brenda's cabin when the previous speaker in the Union went on for ages. It became too late for us all.
George sound asleep, calm seas, good book, off to bed. Kwaheri!
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Fes and Casablanca
Our day in Fes started early after a good night's sleep and a couple of sortees into our magnificent bath/shower. The bathroom was visually gorgeous in pale green and white tiles, a lotus flower hand basin annd dark green floor tiles. However, the toilet lid was cracked down the middle and glued together as was the top of the cistern. Somehow this simply added to a sort of imperfect perfection...it was my favourite room!
We gathered at the bus at 7.45 the next morning and drove around the city, past the enormous gates of the Royal Palace (the King moves between nine palaces) and visited a tile co-op workshop where artisans manually chip the coloured and glazed tiles into preplanned shapes and sizes to fit like a jigsaw on to and in to the master plan. We saw wonderful tiled fountains and vases. Some of the tiny tiles are meticulously hand painted: I watched a young woman doing this with such a delicate touch and couldn't imagine what it must be like to sit cross legged in such concentration for hours a day. I looked at the decor everywhere afterwards, through every open window and door in the crowded medina with great new appreciation.
After this, about 10.30 am, we left the bus to be taken through the Fes medina. 'How long shall we be here?' someone asked the guide. 'We shall be picked up elsewhere by the bus at 2.30' was his response...4 hours!
We had first gazed down on the medina from a high hill: thousands of yellow, ochre and white cubes fitted together tightly into a city within a city. When we entered the gates, after being sternly warned not to stray, ('It will take me years to find you')we walked quite fast (in extreme heat most of the time except for wonderful shady pockets of cool air at some moments) for those 4 hours. Parts were up gentle, long hills when I just put my head down and charged ahead, determined not to be last! We went into a madrassa which is now used as a mosque....how anyone ever found the entrance I have no idea....it was one of a hundred small wooden doors on that narrow street which opened up into a beautiful tiled courtyard, above which were the tiny windows of the boys' rooms...it had been a boarding school. There was such a peaceful atmosphere in the large back room, I could have done with a quick meditation right there! Our group, about 37 strong, was becoming exhausted by exercise and heat...students and others alike.
We visited a tannery where we climbed a narrow inner circular staircase to gaze down upon the raw hides, pools of dye and tanning surfaces. There was an overpoweringly strong odour from the new skins and we were given sprigs of mint to hold under our noses. Of course we were later lead into the attached store where a myriad of jackets, coats. handbags, belts etc hung in profusion. Each was a work of art and had I had more money on me I would have bought something because the prices, after a little bargaining, were ten times lower than in N. America.
It was nearly lunch time so we were lead into another beautiful Moroccan building within the medina still where we were given glasses of mint tea and shown carpets. George made the mistake of admiring a Berber one which I liked too: it had lovely muted colours and obviously there was a great deal of work in it. After being literally worked upon by a team of superb salesmen we bought it! In retrospect I realised that a whole team had been at work: the original salesperson who plied us with mint tea, the secondary salesman an elderly man in a white jellabah who praised us for our excellent taste and took us upstairs to see 'our' amazing carpet on a bare marble floor.
There was a moment when a rather pale faced George muttered to me 'let's go' and I said 'you try it but I can't!', it truly was too late. Then there was our guide who said he would get a good price for George because he was 'the leader'. Then the first man came and shook his hand and with yet another 'owner' or manager a price was decided, George said 'no' and the final price was agreed to. It was a magnificent team effort on their part and we own a carpet we never intended to buy! When we returned to the ship and were having a swop stories session in the bar with friends we discovered that three couples were now the proud owners of Moroccan carpets and all three carpets had been made by widows over a period of from one to two years! Stories to tell gullible N.Americans!
We arrived back on board Explorer at about 8 pm to find the dining room waiting for us with a good old non-Moroccan supper.
Yesterday Tuesday we wandered round Casablanca and the medina again with Amy the music prof just enjoying the heat, the atmosphere and the friendliness of ordinary Moroccans in the street. We sailed last night at 8 pm, rolled through the harbour again, this time with far more movement than our smooth entry. That continued all night so we slept well. Today has been a normal class day, the highlight of which was watching a rehearsal of Michael William's Acting class. The students are doing a play as I may have mentioned for school children in Cape Town...Karoo Moose. It's gonna be good.
Do read Brenda's blog...she had a great adventure and came through with flying colours having made lots of friends. We call it her "baptism of fire"!
We gathered at the bus at 7.45 the next morning and drove around the city, past the enormous gates of the Royal Palace (the King moves between nine palaces) and visited a tile co-op workshop where artisans manually chip the coloured and glazed tiles into preplanned shapes and sizes to fit like a jigsaw on to and in to the master plan. We saw wonderful tiled fountains and vases. Some of the tiny tiles are meticulously hand painted: I watched a young woman doing this with such a delicate touch and couldn't imagine what it must be like to sit cross legged in such concentration for hours a day. I looked at the decor everywhere afterwards, through every open window and door in the crowded medina with great new appreciation.
After this, about 10.30 am, we left the bus to be taken through the Fes medina. 'How long shall we be here?' someone asked the guide. 'We shall be picked up elsewhere by the bus at 2.30' was his response...4 hours!
We had first gazed down on the medina from a high hill: thousands of yellow, ochre and white cubes fitted together tightly into a city within a city. When we entered the gates, after being sternly warned not to stray, ('It will take me years to find you')we walked quite fast (in extreme heat most of the time except for wonderful shady pockets of cool air at some moments) for those 4 hours. Parts were up gentle, long hills when I just put my head down and charged ahead, determined not to be last! We went into a madrassa which is now used as a mosque....how anyone ever found the entrance I have no idea....it was one of a hundred small wooden doors on that narrow street which opened up into a beautiful tiled courtyard, above which were the tiny windows of the boys' rooms...it had been a boarding school. There was such a peaceful atmosphere in the large back room, I could have done with a quick meditation right there! Our group, about 37 strong, was becoming exhausted by exercise and heat...students and others alike.
We visited a tannery where we climbed a narrow inner circular staircase to gaze down upon the raw hides, pools of dye and tanning surfaces. There was an overpoweringly strong odour from the new skins and we were given sprigs of mint to hold under our noses. Of course we were later lead into the attached store where a myriad of jackets, coats. handbags, belts etc hung in profusion. Each was a work of art and had I had more money on me I would have bought something because the prices, after a little bargaining, were ten times lower than in N. America.
It was nearly lunch time so we were lead into another beautiful Moroccan building within the medina still where we were given glasses of mint tea and shown carpets. George made the mistake of admiring a Berber one which I liked too: it had lovely muted colours and obviously there was a great deal of work in it. After being literally worked upon by a team of superb salesmen we bought it! In retrospect I realised that a whole team had been at work: the original salesperson who plied us with mint tea, the secondary salesman an elderly man in a white jellabah who praised us for our excellent taste and took us upstairs to see 'our' amazing carpet on a bare marble floor.
There was a moment when a rather pale faced George muttered to me 'let's go' and I said 'you try it but I can't!', it truly was too late. Then there was our guide who said he would get a good price for George because he was 'the leader'. Then the first man came and shook his hand and with yet another 'owner' or manager a price was decided, George said 'no' and the final price was agreed to. It was a magnificent team effort on their part and we own a carpet we never intended to buy! When we returned to the ship and were having a swop stories session in the bar with friends we discovered that three couples were now the proud owners of Moroccan carpets and all three carpets had been made by widows over a period of from one to two years! Stories to tell gullible N.Americans!
We arrived back on board Explorer at about 8 pm to find the dining room waiting for us with a good old non-Moroccan supper.
Yesterday Tuesday we wandered round Casablanca and the medina again with Amy the music prof just enjoying the heat, the atmosphere and the friendliness of ordinary Moroccans in the street. We sailed last night at 8 pm, rolled through the harbour again, this time with far more movement than our smooth entry. That continued all night so we slept well. Today has been a normal class day, the highlight of which was watching a rehearsal of Michael William's Acting class. The students are doing a play as I may have mentioned for school children in Cape Town...Karoo Moose. It's gonna be good.
Do read Brenda's blog...she had a great adventure and came through with flying colours having made lots of friends. We call it her "baptism of fire"!
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Volubilis and Fes
We have had clear sunny skies ever since we arrived in Morocco, which is wonderful as long as you remember to carry your sun block, hat and water with you as you wander. It is HOT and this is autumn.
I love travel clocks and I thought I had set the two I carry with me to loudly awake us in time to be in the Glazer lounge at 7.30 am. Neither went off! It didn't really matter as I had been waking on the hour ever since 3 am so we were up and breakfasting in good time for George as group leader to make an impressive appearance at 7.15.
The gangway had been lowered to Deck 2 which is always a relief as it is a steep drop should you miss your footing descending from deck 5. Everyone checks this level on our return as the climb up on a hot day, plus back pack and sundries, is gruelling! Yesterday when we returned at about 8pm there was an almost audible sigh of relief as we saw the gangway level with the dock...we were pretty exhausted and delighted to see 'home', feel the air conditioning and have a hot shower. But I'm leaping ahead.... we have only just left the ship....
After picking up our packed box lunches...which I'm sure some of you will remember (fondly?!)... we disembarked. The bus was parked right next to the gangway and we found our seats only to have to wait for one student who couldn't be found....t'was ever thus! Eventually the decision was made to leave without him. We drove through Casablanca in an early morning stupour for the most part, but as we left behind the rush hour and gradually entered greener and more rural surroundings I for one started to take notice. A standard method of transporting persons and goods is by donkey and we often saw them tethered in the shade while their masters dozed beside them. Houses were rectangular, white (originally!), with small square eyes for windows. Scrub and dry yellow soil surrounded them but where there was green in cacti, palms and trees it was dense and brilliant. There was a very clear blue sky and the glare dazzled me into wearing sun glasses as I window gazed. The bus felt cool and comfortable and I felt such an outsider and tourist as we whizzed by hooded men and women walking beside the road or working near the little 'dice' houses.
Volubilis was a magnificent display of Roman villas, streets, latrines and public baths. They sit atop a golden rise near the city of Meknes, ruined by earthquake but somehow glorious in their decay. We wandered there for hours under an excrutiatingly fierce sun. We needed gallons of water to appease our thirsts but there was none available...a strong suggestion has been made by George that it is carried by the bus. Some older members in our group felt dizzy and ill which I diagnosed as dehydration and in one case at least was cured by a few gulps of warm bottled water.
To our great delight we were taken to a Restaurant for lunch....there had been miscommunication somewhere and we abandoned our lunch boxes with glee! Everybody I have spoken to on board has been raving about Moroccan food...it is tasty and mostly tagine cooked: long enclosed cooking releases yet contains all the flavours of lamb or chicken with vegetables and sometimes couscous coloured with Saffron, which is used alot in Moroccan cooking.
(I want you to know that we were asked by our guide to donate those lunch boxes to some people working nearby which we did gladly)
After enjoying a delicious meal in a typically Moroccan restaurant with mosaic wall decoration and Islamic arches in a slightly darkened but cool room, we reboarded the bus and travelled on to Fes. We were taken to our hotel on the outer limits of the Ville Nouvelle in Fes. This rather grand and very French part of the city could easily be in the south of France. The climate here is Mediterranean, palm trees lined the streets and there is a cosmopolitan air about the buildings, fountains and squares. Only the jellabahs, fez's and kaftans speak of a more exotic land.
Our hotel was a boutique type, again in typical arab design...it lacked only one modern addition we would have appreciated....an elevator! 5 was the number tacked on to all floors. Our room was 505. Oh my God I thought I have to lug this back pack up 5 flights of stairs...we were all hot and sticky and thinking hot shower (or cold, who cares?)! We went up one flight and saw 513...OK the 5th floor starts on the bottom? There seemed no order to the numbers as we arrived breathless and hopeful on each landing...we were up 4 flights! Mama Mia!
Our room was a suite: bedroom, living room, kitchen/bar, huge bathroom with all mod cons including a jecuzzi shaped bath with a built-in seat and shower. We had two tvs and were able for the first time since leaving Montreal to watch the BBC news. It took me a little juggling to make both air conditioner units work effectively but finally, showered and cool I thought, I need to get horizontal. There's a bar downstairs, said George...Let's go! So predictably we found ourselves with others sitting outside overlooking the street drinking wine and ouzo! It felt so good to be in a beautiful and exhilarating country, drinking the local wine (from Meknez)with like minded friends and with stable ground beneath our feet. The temperature was a very pleasant 76 degrees or so by now, with a breeze.
More later....
I love travel clocks and I thought I had set the two I carry with me to loudly awake us in time to be in the Glazer lounge at 7.30 am. Neither went off! It didn't really matter as I had been waking on the hour ever since 3 am so we were up and breakfasting in good time for George as group leader to make an impressive appearance at 7.15.
The gangway had been lowered to Deck 2 which is always a relief as it is a steep drop should you miss your footing descending from deck 5. Everyone checks this level on our return as the climb up on a hot day, plus back pack and sundries, is gruelling! Yesterday when we returned at about 8pm there was an almost audible sigh of relief as we saw the gangway level with the dock...we were pretty exhausted and delighted to see 'home', feel the air conditioning and have a hot shower. But I'm leaping ahead.... we have only just left the ship....
After picking up our packed box lunches...which I'm sure some of you will remember (fondly?!)... we disembarked. The bus was parked right next to the gangway and we found our seats only to have to wait for one student who couldn't be found....t'was ever thus! Eventually the decision was made to leave without him. We drove through Casablanca in an early morning stupour for the most part, but as we left behind the rush hour and gradually entered greener and more rural surroundings I for one started to take notice. A standard method of transporting persons and goods is by donkey and we often saw them tethered in the shade while their masters dozed beside them. Houses were rectangular, white (originally!), with small square eyes for windows. Scrub and dry yellow soil surrounded them but where there was green in cacti, palms and trees it was dense and brilliant. There was a very clear blue sky and the glare dazzled me into wearing sun glasses as I window gazed. The bus felt cool and comfortable and I felt such an outsider and tourist as we whizzed by hooded men and women walking beside the road or working near the little 'dice' houses.
Volubilis was a magnificent display of Roman villas, streets, latrines and public baths. They sit atop a golden rise near the city of Meknes, ruined by earthquake but somehow glorious in their decay. We wandered there for hours under an excrutiatingly fierce sun. We needed gallons of water to appease our thirsts but there was none available...a strong suggestion has been made by George that it is carried by the bus. Some older members in our group felt dizzy and ill which I diagnosed as dehydration and in one case at least was cured by a few gulps of warm bottled water.
To our great delight we were taken to a Restaurant for lunch....there had been miscommunication somewhere and we abandoned our lunch boxes with glee! Everybody I have spoken to on board has been raving about Moroccan food...it is tasty and mostly tagine cooked: long enclosed cooking releases yet contains all the flavours of lamb or chicken with vegetables and sometimes couscous coloured with Saffron, which is used alot in Moroccan cooking.
(I want you to know that we were asked by our guide to donate those lunch boxes to some people working nearby which we did gladly)
After enjoying a delicious meal in a typically Moroccan restaurant with mosaic wall decoration and Islamic arches in a slightly darkened but cool room, we reboarded the bus and travelled on to Fes. We were taken to our hotel on the outer limits of the Ville Nouvelle in Fes. This rather grand and very French part of the city could easily be in the south of France. The climate here is Mediterranean, palm trees lined the streets and there is a cosmopolitan air about the buildings, fountains and squares. Only the jellabahs, fez's and kaftans speak of a more exotic land.
Our hotel was a boutique type, again in typical arab design...it lacked only one modern addition we would have appreciated....an elevator! 5 was the number tacked on to all floors. Our room was 505. Oh my God I thought I have to lug this back pack up 5 flights of stairs...we were all hot and sticky and thinking hot shower (or cold, who cares?)! We went up one flight and saw 513...OK the 5th floor starts on the bottom? There seemed no order to the numbers as we arrived breathless and hopeful on each landing...we were up 4 flights! Mama Mia!
Our room was a suite: bedroom, living room, kitchen/bar, huge bathroom with all mod cons including a jecuzzi shaped bath with a built-in seat and shower. We had two tvs and were able for the first time since leaving Montreal to watch the BBC news. It took me a little juggling to make both air conditioner units work effectively but finally, showered and cool I thought, I need to get horizontal. There's a bar downstairs, said George...Let's go! So predictably we found ourselves with others sitting outside overlooking the street drinking wine and ouzo! It felt so good to be in a beautiful and exhilarating country, drinking the local wine (from Meknez)with like minded friends and with stable ground beneath our feet. The temperature was a very pleasant 76 degrees or so by now, with a breeze.
More later....
Email from my dog Bess
Or how to feel better about leaving our dog! THANK YOU SHEILA! (Sheila is my 'oldest' friend in Canada...we did our nursing training together in Edinburgh...it's OK Sheila, I won't tell them when... suffice to say there have been a few medical breakthroughs since then!) Below is an epistle from our brilliant wee dug....so Bess is esconsed in a lovely big house in Toronto, with a huge and beautiful garden, a long suffering and tolerant companion called Lady (o.d.)and a loving mistress called Sheila or o.l.
Dear Mum And Dad,
I am not sure if I should be using this address but if I dont hear otherwise from you I will continue to write to u using it.
Well I looked for you after u left me at this old house but the old lady(well she calls herself that???) cuddled me and told me you were away on a cruise and I was to be with her until you returned. She actually gives me lots of cuddles which is good but of course it's not as good as yours.
An old dog lives here and she is friendly, she allows me to rest on her BIG bed while she tries to fit into my little one. The old lady (from now on when I elude to her or the dog I will write o.l. or o.d.) says she will send you some photographs when she learns how. You would think by her age she would know how to do everything!
We go for walks in the park and I run like mad and speak to all the other dogs large and small. It is quite fun running in and out to the garden especially when it rains as I leave lots of paw marks although mine are much daintier than the o.ds.
As it turned out dogs were not allowed at the cottage (o.l. didnt read small print!! perhaps she couldn't find her "specs" as she calls them she is always on the wander loooking for them and even when they are in front of her eyes she cant see them)
However a lady with a little girl(I liked her she gave me a treat) came and stayed with us I was happy as the o.d. was still with me.
She took us for walks but was afraid we would run away so we were on lead at all times.
I am eating well but not quite on my old schedule. O.d. is fed twice a day and as I don't always eat my food when given the o.d. has the nerve to eat what I dont. If she were a bit smaller I would give her a piece of my mind.
O.l. keeps a little of my breakfast and I eat it at supper. Believe me I eat it all very very quickly and then I rush to see if the o.d. has left any she does the same so we pass each other en route.
I sat on a beast the other day and it was very painful. O.l. quickly lifted me up as I was crying but she couldn't see anything, she said she thought it must have been a wasp.
I sat on her knee for a l---------o-------n--------g time and I got lots of xxxxxx.Ialso got a treat. But you know what pissed me off? The o.d. also got a treat and she wasn't even outside when thet beast stung. Do you think I should complain to the animal cruelty people or will you do it for me when you come back.
To-day is the Air Show and the noise is awful. But the O.L. tells me she loves to hear and see the old planes. Apparently she was (seems still is) in luv with a guy who was a Navigator when the WAR was on.
WEll o.l. has read your "Blog" and wishes she could be with you as it all sounds so exciting.
Anyway she can wish all she likes as it is more important she looks after me and o.d.
By the way you might like to know I go to sleep in my own big bed in o.l. room, b.d. is on the bed (very unfair) so I have worked out if I make squeaky noises when the sun comes up O.L. pats the bed and I can cuddle in beside her. O.d.is still sound asleep so she has no idea what is going on ha ha ha.
Fondest luv to you both, I will write soon again.
The o.l. says her spelling is not always too good so please forgive. If she had any sense she would ask me as I come from a highly intelligent home.!
xxxxxxxxxxx, Your loving doggy Bessie
Oh my goodnes 7 planes have just flown overhead in perfect formation. Clever guys. B. B
Dear Mum And Dad,
I am not sure if I should be using this address but if I dont hear otherwise from you I will continue to write to u using it.
Well I looked for you after u left me at this old house but the old lady(well she calls herself that???) cuddled me and told me you were away on a cruise and I was to be with her until you returned. She actually gives me lots of cuddles which is good but of course it's not as good as yours.
An old dog lives here and she is friendly, she allows me to rest on her BIG bed while she tries to fit into my little one. The old lady (from now on when I elude to her or the dog I will write o.l. or o.d.) says she will send you some photographs when she learns how. You would think by her age she would know how to do everything!
We go for walks in the park and I run like mad and speak to all the other dogs large and small. It is quite fun running in and out to the garden especially when it rains as I leave lots of paw marks although mine are much daintier than the o.ds.
As it turned out dogs were not allowed at the cottage (o.l. didnt read small print!! perhaps she couldn't find her "specs" as she calls them she is always on the wander loooking for them and even when they are in front of her eyes she cant see them)
However a lady with a little girl(I liked her she gave me a treat) came and stayed with us I was happy as the o.d. was still with me.
She took us for walks but was afraid we would run away so we were on lead at all times.
I am eating well but not quite on my old schedule. O.d. is fed twice a day and as I don't always eat my food when given the o.d. has the nerve to eat what I dont. If she were a bit smaller I would give her a piece of my mind.
O.l. keeps a little of my breakfast and I eat it at supper. Believe me I eat it all very very quickly and then I rush to see if the o.d. has left any she does the same so we pass each other en route.
I sat on a beast the other day and it was very painful. O.l. quickly lifted me up as I was crying but she couldn't see anything, she said she thought it must have been a wasp.
I sat on her knee for a l---------o-------n--------g time and I got lots of xxxxxx.Ialso got a treat. But you know what pissed me off? The o.d. also got a treat and she wasn't even outside when thet beast stung. Do you think I should complain to the animal cruelty people or will you do it for me when you come back.
To-day is the Air Show and the noise is awful. But the O.L. tells me she loves to hear and see the old planes. Apparently she was (seems still is) in luv with a guy who was a Navigator when the WAR was on.
WEll o.l. has read your "Blog" and wishes she could be with you as it all sounds so exciting.
Anyway she can wish all she likes as it is more important she looks after me and o.d.
By the way you might like to know I go to sleep in my own big bed in o.l. room, b.d. is on the bed (very unfair) so I have worked out if I make squeaky noises when the sun comes up O.L. pats the bed and I can cuddle in beside her. O.d.is still sound asleep so she has no idea what is going on ha ha ha.
Fondest luv to you both, I will write soon again.
The o.l. says her spelling is not always too good so please forgive. If she had any sense she would ask me as I come from a highly intelligent home.!
xxxxxxxxxxx, Your loving doggy Bessie
Oh my goodnes 7 planes have just flown overhead in perfect formation. Clever guys. B. B
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Smooth sailing.
We arrived in Casablanca so smoothly this morning you could be forgiven for thinking I simply had a flair for the dramatic. Captain Jeremy gave us our last warning about 6.45 am saying "the boat might roll considerably" and we waited and waited and felt absolutely nothing! I got up about 6 am, had a shower, made us our morning tea, got dressed and hopped back into bed to be sure I had George to hang on to. Flashbacks and tension! However, all went well and we breakfasted on deck looking at the industrial port view of the city. not beautiful but we were all excited to be here nevertheless.
I never think of Casablanca as African but of course it is with its palm trees, Art Decco buildings and tree'd street centres...it's an exotic mixture of Africa and France. Perhaps the France of the French Foreign legion. George and I took a shuttle bus to the port entrance and walked into the city. It was hot in the sun but a lovely cool breeze made walking in the shade a pleasure.
We both managed to use ATM machines: George had far more difficulty finding one which would accept his Toronto Dominion debit card while I immediately, to my amazement, was given cash using my McMaster Credit Union debit card! I always knew it was the best bank!
I wanted a cup of coffee but every street cafe was filled with men, not a woman in sight. Eventually we found one, same situation, all men, yet it was beautifully situated under trees looking out on to a wide roundabout and there was a breeze. So I said 'the heck with it let's sit here even if I am the only female' and we did. We had lovely strong coffee in tiny cups and watched the exotic world go by.
We then strolled slowly through the packed medina: narrow lanes, crowded with shoppers this Saturday morning. Women in their beautiful, loose robes with hoods or headscarves, and men in loose cotton jellabahs, shirts and trousers or simply T shirts and jeans. There was a wonderful mix of spicy smells; barrows piled high with bananas, oranges, pomegranets and grapes: long crusty baguettes under plastic domes. There were tiny shops selling beautiful leather goods, pointed toe men's shoes, embossed handbags, gorgeous loose hooded gowns and kaftans in gem colours with heavy embroidery, simple cotton ones for men which I love. I wanted to buy myself one of these and found a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop with a sole woman in charge. I only had to blink interest as I passed and I was inside before I knew it! I tried on lots of stunning kaftans, getting hotter and hotter by the second but happy to practice my French. George stood patiently waiting and gave an audible groan when I finally chose the first one I had put on....or she had put on me, because that's what happened. I entered and she had my sling bag off in a split second and the lovely white gown (with pale lemon embroidery at the neck and sleeve edges!) was thrown over my head before I could protest. I have it on as I write...exactly what I wanted, loose and cool....and white! I did bargain but not all that successfully as she knew what she had, (a trapped tourist) and only negotiated a little.
We then started walking towards the port again looking for a restaurant for lunch. The first one we entered said "Salon de The et Restaurant". We climbed the stairs and found ourselves amidst red velvet chairs and black tables. Ah I thought passing a man with a hookah, there are two women, good....one with a hookah certainly, but chatting away as I would with Liz, Nora or Jo in the Winchester. So we sat down....bliss, dark and cool. We asked about food, 'Ah non' said this nice young man (another escapee from kindergarten) 'Hookah?!' "Ah non!" we said in one voice and left. Me thinking I wonder what it would be like to smoke one?!
We crossed the road and wandered further down. At last we saw "Restaurant, Gastronomique et Morroco" It was perfect, again dark and cool upstairs...and not a soul there. Fast service, the joy of fresh lemonade without sugar...what a thirst quencher, with a bottle of iced water to add slowly..parfait! George had the iced beer he had been craving and we ordered tagines of lamb and vegetables for me, lamb and prunes for George. Ah we said smugly...peace, away from the ship, just the two of us. Hello said a familiar voice, what are you doing here? A whole SAS group, faculty, students and Life long learners on a city tour and this (our) restaurant was their choice! We couldn't believe it. It happens of course everywhere we go, even in a city the size of Casablanca...or Cape Town or Shanghai...you can't escape 'em! The meal was delicious and they sat far away so it didn't really disrupt our peace too much.
We are back on board Explorer now and shall remain here until we leave fairly early tomorrow morning for Volubilis and Fez. It is good to be 'home' again in air conditioning and with a bed just behind me to drop on to when I feel like it. George is lying on a chaise longue on our balcony...feeling he says a little under the weather. Oh dear, he leads the trip tomorrow, let's hope he makes a speedy recovery.
I never think of Casablanca as African but of course it is with its palm trees, Art Decco buildings and tree'd street centres...it's an exotic mixture of Africa and France. Perhaps the France of the French Foreign legion. George and I took a shuttle bus to the port entrance and walked into the city. It was hot in the sun but a lovely cool breeze made walking in the shade a pleasure.
We both managed to use ATM machines: George had far more difficulty finding one which would accept his Toronto Dominion debit card while I immediately, to my amazement, was given cash using my McMaster Credit Union debit card! I always knew it was the best bank!
I wanted a cup of coffee but every street cafe was filled with men, not a woman in sight. Eventually we found one, same situation, all men, yet it was beautifully situated under trees looking out on to a wide roundabout and there was a breeze. So I said 'the heck with it let's sit here even if I am the only female' and we did. We had lovely strong coffee in tiny cups and watched the exotic world go by.
We then strolled slowly through the packed medina: narrow lanes, crowded with shoppers this Saturday morning. Women in their beautiful, loose robes with hoods or headscarves, and men in loose cotton jellabahs, shirts and trousers or simply T shirts and jeans. There was a wonderful mix of spicy smells; barrows piled high with bananas, oranges, pomegranets and grapes: long crusty baguettes under plastic domes. There were tiny shops selling beautiful leather goods, pointed toe men's shoes, embossed handbags, gorgeous loose hooded gowns and kaftans in gem colours with heavy embroidery, simple cotton ones for men which I love. I wanted to buy myself one of these and found a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop with a sole woman in charge. I only had to blink interest as I passed and I was inside before I knew it! I tried on lots of stunning kaftans, getting hotter and hotter by the second but happy to practice my French. George stood patiently waiting and gave an audible groan when I finally chose the first one I had put on....or she had put on me, because that's what happened. I entered and she had my sling bag off in a split second and the lovely white gown (with pale lemon embroidery at the neck and sleeve edges!) was thrown over my head before I could protest. I have it on as I write...exactly what I wanted, loose and cool....and white! I did bargain but not all that successfully as she knew what she had, (a trapped tourist) and only negotiated a little.
We then started walking towards the port again looking for a restaurant for lunch. The first one we entered said "Salon de The et Restaurant". We climbed the stairs and found ourselves amidst red velvet chairs and black tables. Ah I thought passing a man with a hookah, there are two women, good....one with a hookah certainly, but chatting away as I would with Liz, Nora or Jo in the Winchester. So we sat down....bliss, dark and cool. We asked about food, 'Ah non' said this nice young man (another escapee from kindergarten) 'Hookah?!' "Ah non!" we said in one voice and left. Me thinking I wonder what it would be like to smoke one?!
We crossed the road and wandered further down. At last we saw "Restaurant, Gastronomique et Morroco" It was perfect, again dark and cool upstairs...and not a soul there. Fast service, the joy of fresh lemonade without sugar...what a thirst quencher, with a bottle of iced water to add slowly..parfait! George had the iced beer he had been craving and we ordered tagines of lamb and vegetables for me, lamb and prunes for George. Ah we said smugly...peace, away from the ship, just the two of us. Hello said a familiar voice, what are you doing here? A whole SAS group, faculty, students and Life long learners on a city tour and this (our) restaurant was their choice! We couldn't believe it. It happens of course everywhere we go, even in a city the size of Casablanca...or Cape Town or Shanghai...you can't escape 'em! The meal was delicious and they sat far away so it didn't really disrupt our peace too much.
We are back on board Explorer now and shall remain here until we leave fairly early tomorrow morning for Volubilis and Fez. It is good to be 'home' again in air conditioning and with a bed just behind me to drop on to when I feel like it. George is lying on a chaise longue on our balcony...feeling he says a little under the weather. Oh dear, he leads the trip tomorrow, let's hope he makes a speedy recovery.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Ho hum
2nd September
I am looking forward to having something exciting to say on my next post...post Morocco. Life on board, whilst exciting and interesting for each of us (and possibly ex-SAS followers), must seem repetitive, as indeed it is in many ways, to all of you. There are lots of tiny moments on board which I relish though, and I think I must remember to mention this on my blog....when I sit down to write though they have apparently been too miniscule to remember!
We have Evelyn Hannon the Editor of Journeywoman on board. She was the reason I first heard about Semester at Sea because....she wrote a blog! George and I met her in Toronto for lunch and to get advice before we left on our first voyage in 2009. She is a delight! With a huge sense of humour and telling wonderfully funny stories especialy about her grandchildren. We shall miss her and Brenda when they both fly home to Toronto from Cape Town. Brenda had tried to get on to a much more convenient flight (which Evelyn is on) but ran into the demand for a whole lot more money although she was prepared to pay the difference in price of course. Soooo..Evelyn has made this public on Twitter and has received very helpful replies from the company responsible. Brenda may get on the flight after all because they have asked that she contact them....keep your fingers crossed.
The three of us (G., Brenda and I) have been sitting in our cabin listening/watching on TV to the Logistical pre-port which is going on right now in the Union. So much more comfortable up here. Just ran down and puchased a bottle of Pepto Bismal tablets. Can't believe I forgot to bring them. As SAS-ers will remember the talks are full of do's and don'ts at least three times over. As we know some people still don't get it!
Trying to finalise the trip I am hoping Brenda and I will be doing in Ghana. Just discovered that our only option for payment at this point is to pay the driver cash (over US$1000.00 for the 2c of us!)because Ghana has been taken off the approved list for Credit Cards...help! We are trying to figure out how to achieve this with George saying in the background 'Well I wouldn't go'....we're digging our heels in at the moment. We shall see! Who is your money on?!
Brenda has departed to her cabin with strict instructions from us and the Captain to be in bed or sitting down when, at about 7 am, we enter the Casablanca harbour. I know from experience of being thrown across the cabin with the TV and my chair and ending up black and blue that this is information is to be taken seriously. It is a narrow and rather hazardous entry point. Once we're in we shall meet at our usual 7.30 am for breakfast before she leaves for Marrakesh, the Atlas mountains and Berber villages at 10 am. G. and I wil be exploring Casablanca which we haven't done until we leave for Fez the following day.
So Kwa Heri and Go Well. George is already in bed waiting to read Railway stories to me....it's like being a child again, I LOVE being read to. In honour of Frenchspeaking \morocco..Bonsoir mes amis! Dormez bien! (in 5 hours time when you retire.)
I am looking forward to having something exciting to say on my next post...post Morocco. Life on board, whilst exciting and interesting for each of us (and possibly ex-SAS followers), must seem repetitive, as indeed it is in many ways, to all of you. There are lots of tiny moments on board which I relish though, and I think I must remember to mention this on my blog....when I sit down to write though they have apparently been too miniscule to remember!
We have Evelyn Hannon the Editor of Journeywoman on board. She was the reason I first heard about Semester at Sea because....she wrote a blog! George and I met her in Toronto for lunch and to get advice before we left on our first voyage in 2009. She is a delight! With a huge sense of humour and telling wonderfully funny stories especialy about her grandchildren. We shall miss her and Brenda when they both fly home to Toronto from Cape Town. Brenda had tried to get on to a much more convenient flight (which Evelyn is on) but ran into the demand for a whole lot more money although she was prepared to pay the difference in price of course. Soooo..Evelyn has made this public on Twitter and has received very helpful replies from the company responsible. Brenda may get on the flight after all because they have asked that she contact them....keep your fingers crossed.
The three of us (G., Brenda and I) have been sitting in our cabin listening/watching on TV to the Logistical pre-port which is going on right now in the Union. So much more comfortable up here. Just ran down and puchased a bottle of Pepto Bismal tablets. Can't believe I forgot to bring them. As SAS-ers will remember the talks are full of do's and don'ts at least three times over. As we know some people still don't get it!
Trying to finalise the trip I am hoping Brenda and I will be doing in Ghana. Just discovered that our only option for payment at this point is to pay the driver cash (over US$1000.00 for the 2c of us!)because Ghana has been taken off the approved list for Credit Cards...help! We are trying to figure out how to achieve this with George saying in the background 'Well I wouldn't go'....we're digging our heels in at the moment. We shall see! Who is your money on?!
Brenda has departed to her cabin with strict instructions from us and the Captain to be in bed or sitting down when, at about 7 am, we enter the Casablanca harbour. I know from experience of being thrown across the cabin with the TV and my chair and ending up black and blue that this is information is to be taken seriously. It is a narrow and rather hazardous entry point. Once we're in we shall meet at our usual 7.30 am for breakfast before she leaves for Marrakesh, the Atlas mountains and Berber villages at 10 am. G. and I wil be exploring Casablanca which we haven't done until we leave for Fez the following day.
So Kwa Heri and Go Well. George is already in bed waiting to read Railway stories to me....it's like being a child again, I LOVE being read to. In honour of Frenchspeaking \morocco..Bonsoir mes amis! Dormez bien! (in 5 hours time when you retire.)
Thursday, September 1, 2011
A significant date
1st September 2011
On Sept. 1, 1939, World War II began as Nazi Germany invaded Poland...lest we forget.
WW2 was awful for me in many ways (separation from parents), and yet wonderful in others (living in South Africa), a projection of all the years to come....life. It's stunning to think how many people I thought I would/could never live without, would always be there, have shuffled off this mortal coil.. it's true that life goes on, with or without us. We take each other foregranted never imagining a world where ourselves or the other have ceased to exist...and yet here is our planet, spinning on. Hmmm. Off to meditate!
Lovely breakfast being blown to bits by a cool breeze on the Garden Lounge deck with the two Brendas, Steve and George. It's so invigorating to get that initial blast of sea air which blows the cobwebs away. Followed by Brenda and I picking up our reading from the library. From Sister Killjoy, short stories about Ghana and Nigeria from a Ghanaian writer. Ama Ata Aidoo. I started reading immediately and returned it a few minutes late (because of Global Studies) and received my second reprimand from the librarian on being late (15 minutes I think). I had earlier explained that Brenda and I would pass it on to each other but keep checking in. The other students in the class seem to have their own copies so we are the only two using these reserved reading materials...two hours at a time. Talk about pressure... miss you Warner!
Global studies today was chock-a-block full of information on the geography, history and religions of Morocco. However, trying to absorb it all whilst listening to a very loud strained voice again, followed by a repeat of much of the information was trying to say the least. I did enjoy the clip of Ingrid Bergman, Humphrey Bogart and 'Sam' at the piano in Casablanca the old movie....although it must appear pre-historic to the students!
I must seem to drift from meal to meal because I have just returned to our cabin to hibernate until 2.20 from lunch. This time in bright sunshine and a warm-er breeze. Get this, the students were excited because we had....no not ice cream...no not a filet steak...we had BRUSSEL SPROUTS!!! I couldn't believe the enthusiasm...helping after helping and plates scraped clean....for brussel sprouts. George (whose mother did not serve vegetables unless they were cooked into a mush) left ONE on his plate. We, Brenda, Kimberley (student) and I were all eyeing it, but I felt in a privileged position and quickly 'forked' it! Well you know what they say caviar would be cheap if it was plentiful, kippers would be worth a king's ransome if there were only one or two....brussel sprouts are popular because we rarely set eyes on a green leafy veg.. We have lettuce coming out of our ears but that doesn't count.
George is teaching, our class (Women's World Literature with Rashna Singh) starts at 2.20 pm so I'm going to read a new good book: The Forty Rules of Love by Elif Shafak...it is alot about the 13th century Sufi poet Rumi, but with a thoroughly modern story intertwined. I am so happy to have been lent it (by Brenda 1) as I have finished, therefore lost, The Help...which I loved. I was finding it hard to move on until this landed in my hands....thank you Brenda!
On Sept. 1, 1939, World War II began as Nazi Germany invaded Poland...lest we forget.
WW2 was awful for me in many ways (separation from parents), and yet wonderful in others (living in South Africa), a projection of all the years to come....life. It's stunning to think how many people I thought I would/could never live without, would always be there, have shuffled off this mortal coil.. it's true that life goes on, with or without us. We take each other foregranted never imagining a world where ourselves or the other have ceased to exist...and yet here is our planet, spinning on. Hmmm. Off to meditate!
Lovely breakfast being blown to bits by a cool breeze on the Garden Lounge deck with the two Brendas, Steve and George. It's so invigorating to get that initial blast of sea air which blows the cobwebs away. Followed by Brenda and I picking up our reading from the library. From Sister Killjoy, short stories about Ghana and Nigeria from a Ghanaian writer. Ama Ata Aidoo. I started reading immediately and returned it a few minutes late (because of Global Studies) and received my second reprimand from the librarian on being late (15 minutes I think). I had earlier explained that Brenda and I would pass it on to each other but keep checking in. The other students in the class seem to have their own copies so we are the only two using these reserved reading materials...two hours at a time. Talk about pressure... miss you Warner!
Global studies today was chock-a-block full of information on the geography, history and religions of Morocco. However, trying to absorb it all whilst listening to a very loud strained voice again, followed by a repeat of much of the information was trying to say the least. I did enjoy the clip of Ingrid Bergman, Humphrey Bogart and 'Sam' at the piano in Casablanca the old movie....although it must appear pre-historic to the students!
I must seem to drift from meal to meal because I have just returned to our cabin to hibernate until 2.20 from lunch. This time in bright sunshine and a warm-er breeze. Get this, the students were excited because we had....no not ice cream...no not a filet steak...we had BRUSSEL SPROUTS!!! I couldn't believe the enthusiasm...helping after helping and plates scraped clean....for brussel sprouts. George (whose mother did not serve vegetables unless they were cooked into a mush) left ONE on his plate. We, Brenda, Kimberley (student) and I were all eyeing it, but I felt in a privileged position and quickly 'forked' it! Well you know what they say caviar would be cheap if it was plentiful, kippers would be worth a king's ransome if there were only one or two....brussel sprouts are popular because we rarely set eyes on a green leafy veg.. We have lettuce coming out of our ears but that doesn't count.
George is teaching, our class (Women's World Literature with Rashna Singh) starts at 2.20 pm so I'm going to read a new good book: The Forty Rules of Love by Elif Shafak...it is alot about the 13th century Sufi poet Rumi, but with a thoroughly modern story intertwined. I am so happy to have been lent it (by Brenda 1) as I have finished, therefore lost, The Help...which I loved. I was finding it hard to move on until this landed in my hands....thank you Brenda!
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