The storm continued unabated....fork and sheet lightening, the odd deafening clap of thunder, and the rain...what magnificent tropical rain, I LOVED it! William seemed unfazed as we bumped over non paved rocky roads in an almost solid blackness. 'Everybody goes inside and they turn off all their lights' William said and he was right, not a soul was to be seen anywhere and there were no comforting lighted windows. I couldn't believe I had remarked to George in the morning 'I wonder why we need a four wheel drive?' Had I totally forgotten West African roads.
Aside: I drove all over Nigeria with John in an ordinary Vauxhall over some pretty shoddy trails and unpaved roads. Driven always during working hours by a company driver, Johnson. He was perhaps my greatest friend in Nigeria because we spent many happy hours together talking, talking....waiting for John to conclude business in some out of the way agency or simply food shopping in the market. More important he was a superb driver and I shall not forget the first time he told me to 'Belt up Madam, this is a rotten road!' I should add that he was the most gentle and respectful of men. I remember him especially when I plunged into the crowded Onitsha market (the biggest in Africa?) where he had warned me white women did not often go. He was always one step behind me, or in front if he perceived any sort of threat be it an aggressive seller or someone asking me a ridiculous price. Oh Johnson where are you now?
Another Aside: We have just crossed the Equator! The captain warned us of the bump and the visibility of that significant line if we looked overboard down upon the water?! It was exactly 15.05 pm Saturday 17th Sept..both Brendas and many others were dunked in the pool this morning. Father Neptune watched over all the procedures, green from head to foot..alias Captain Jeremy Kingston. There was a head shaving ceremony...don't worry Frank, Brenda's hair is still all there!
We finally arrived at the Lake Bosomtwe Paradise Resort. We were greeted warmly and our bags taken to our room.
'By the way' I said immediately to the manager 'we are very, very hungry, where may we have supper?'
'Oh Madam' was the reply 'the kitchen has closed.'!
William jumped in
"it is not yet 9 o'clock, they should not have closed'
'But there was no one here' said Samuel, the manager.
'You were expecting us?' asked William,
'That is true' said Samuel....long pause and...stalemate.
'What can you give us?' I asked 'do you have chips?'
'Ah you would like chips?' Samuel's face brightens 'And chicken?'
'Fantastic!' say Brenda and I in one voice.
'And wine?' asks my on-the-ball friend
'$35.00' says Samuel
'Wha...?' I start...
'We'll have it!' says Brenda. I told you she was great to travel with!
So we eat our first dinner ashore in our lovely big room with the fan and air conditioner belting away....aaaah, cool, wonderful....pouf! The whole lot go off, there is a dark, deafening silence. We sit there stunned, blinking into the silent darkness and I think again
'Africa bloody Africa!'
About ten minutes later the power returned and we were able to see what we were devouring....both of us used lots of ketchup! We were enjoying ourselves....we had running water, hot and cold, comfortable firm beds and we were cooling down again.
We fell into bed after supper and slept soundly until day break. We awoke almost simultaneously and drew back the curtains. There in front of us was Lake Bosomtwe, surrounded by forest covered hills. Immediately below our balcony were manicured lawns and palm trees. There were two or three fishermen out on the lake. They sat on boards of wood looking for all the world as if they were wading. They appeared to be setting up their underwater nets. We could hear bird song and there were a multitude of tiny birds, crows, kingfishers and wagtails. I later spotted vultures and we saw a few hawks. Everywhere were gekos and larger coloured lizards. Hibiscus bushes bloomed, beauganvillia, morning glory and lots of varied bushes with multi coloured and patterned leaves. I felt a cloak of pure happiness descend on me...I was back in Africa, even the air felt familiar!
More later....I'll try to finish this tonight.
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